A recent work trip took me to Brussels, Belgium for the week. There would be plenty of free evenings for exploring the drinking scene of Brussels. But first we decided to spend the weekend prior to my conference in Ghent. This blog was dedicated to drinking, but we also want to give a couple of our favorite finds in Ghent because it was a great weekend and a beautiful city.

Why Should I Go to Ghent?

Well, I’m glad you asked. We debated between Ghent and Brugges. It was a struggle of a decision, but we ultimately decided that Ghent was easier and we could take the train on a day trip to Brugges if we wanted to see it. Side Bar:  the train system in Belgium is super easy to navigate and pretty cheap – make sure you get the Train+ pass, our $3 pass for the month ended up saving us almost $40 by the time we left Belgium.

But I didn’t answer your question, did I? Ghent is a super cute little town, with a fairy tale/medieval feel to it. We stayed right downtown at the Novotel Ghent Centrum, and could walk our way through all the cobblestones, cathedrals, and around the canal system. Yes, I said canals. It’s like mini-medieval Venice.

But Let’s Talk Ghent Drinking

Jiggers

The one everyone says to go to is Jiggers. It WAS a speakeasy, so we were excited to try it. It is no longer considered a speakeasy, although they do have a slightly hidden basement bar. We do not rank or rate this as a speakeasy since it is not hidden and there is no challenge. But the drinks were fantastic, and the service from Gianni was awesome (and he and Eduardo provided us with new ideas for Brussels). We recommend Jiggers as a place you must find for a cocktail in Ghent.

Galgenhuis

On our canal tour we were informed of the smallest bar in Ghent – which used to be the smallest bar in Belgium until they put in a patio. In reliving our theme from Austin at The Smallest Bar in Texas, we decided The Hangman Bar had to happen. Technically called ‘T Galgenhuis, inside is definitely tiny. We loved the small, welcoming atmosphere.

We were not down for the patio, it seemed too common (and chilly), we wanted inside. The inside was full, but then we noticed the second-floor windows from the outside. Up a set of very steep, curved stairs was a loft with seating for 8 people. Bonus was that it overlooked the main floor, so we could people watch. Then our new friends arrived, two couples had taken the train in from their own small town to simply spend the afternoon day drinking. We were friends immediately! The service was great, and everyone was so friendly.

The Alchemist

Crossing the bridge to the other side of the canal, we happened by the cutest sign reading “Forgive me father for I have ginned” and that seemed a good sign that we needed to be there. Turns out it was a bar called The Alchemist. We have a history of finding some amazing bars called The Alchemist (London, Washington DC, Glasgow – The Alchemist is a pretty common bar name). Specializing in Gin and Tonics, it’s a small little hole in the wall, with a great wood-clad, homey feel. A little loud, a serious after work with the co-workers you like kind of place. The bartenders would all know my name and gin preferences if we lived in Ghent, it is definitely a place I would want to be often.

Bar Bonnie

During our walk exploring the city we passed Bar Bonnie. Assuming it was named after our mother, we popped by for a quick espresso martini. We ended up having to have their signature Bonnie cocktail, which was a peach and vodka based spritzer and and fit perfectly into our wheelhouse. Their warm Camembert with rosemary and thyme was amazing with warm sourdough bread as our snack time approached.

Jaggers

Not to be confused with Jiggers, we next found ourselves at Jaggers. Jaggers came highly recommended for a traditional Belgian mussel and frites. They have a great outside heated patio. Inside is a warm ambiance with an upscale, but slightly rock and roll feel (as in, great artwork, subtle colors, but famous artist pictures and guitars on the walls) The service was great, and they were lovely to engage two Americans and their need to speak English. Peggy found her usual Porn Star martini hit the spot, and we then figured out how awesome shrimp croquets are in Belgium – and yes, we snuck in a few more of these around Ghent that weekend.

Pui di Piu

We stopped into Piu di Piu, which came highly recommended. But it was packed and we didn’t love being cramped, it was the end of our night, we were tired and had quite a few cocktails by this point. However, they do have private karaoke rooms. Then we remembered that we didn’t need privacy to sing. It was a pretty bar, with a great cocktail list. So we recommend it, even though we didn’t have the best experience. But that night there was a big loud table, and we were crowded into a corner. However, it is a cool bar and worthy of you making your own decision.

But then there was ONE Speakeasy

And Peggy was so ready for 1898. We really wanted to stay at 1898 The Post. It looks so amazing. It also looks so fancy. But, as much as we love a luxury hotel, 1898 The Post was a little out of our budget considering the length of this trip. However, The Post is home to The Cobbler.

We are giving this speakeasy credit, as it is tucked away and not obvious. It does not have any task to get in, but reservations are recommended. Hidden behind a curtain, just down the hall from The Post check-in desk, The Cobbler is dark and moody, with couches and barrel chairs, wood, and fantastic old décor.

Our server was adorable, and we happily overlooked the fact he forgot us for a good 20 minutes. But he was an almost exact replica of my youngest child, mannerism, and all, and treated us to a sample of some great Belgian liquor. When I mentioned how much he resembled my son he smiled and said he loved Americans because we are so friendly and willing to share our lives so openly- and he manged to sound genuine about it! We scored a great candlelit table by the window where the server told us we had really scored the best seats in the house. It was a bit of a waste as it was very romantic for two sisters.

Books and Booze, Oh My

Last stop of the night was just across from our hotel. Books and Booze is a bookshop with cocktails. Kind of a mini paradise, actually. It’s set up amazingly so that the booze reflects the book topics. Hard to explain, but see the pictures, shelves of books, with bottles interspersed, and yes, you can get a shopping cocktail. We defaulted to a Gin and Tonic with a local brand called Dada Chapel. The owner was fantastic and fun to converse with. It was one of my favorite stops in Ghent, and I bought a book on the History of Drunkenness.

And all the other cool things in Ghent

So many cool things: street art, canal boat rides, statues, and gothic chapels. The city is very walkable. Let’s talk about some things other than the internet famous stops, like Frites Atelier, which provides fries with plenty of toppings (we will talk about Belgian frites in our Brussels blog).

The Castle of the Count

It’s a great central part of the city. Turns out the count who built it wanted it to be impressive, which it is, but it ended up being too cold to live in or host events in. The highlight: there is a dungeon room!!

Street Art        

One of our favorites was the giant Neptune over what used to be the entrance of the fish market. It was impressive. But then I found my Ghent obsession. . . because you know there had to be one. This was a little bit of a walk, but also creepy AF. It’s simply called Jonas. It is in a local neighborhood, and it is a seriously creepy statue of a little boy hanging on a wall. And I had to see it. Turns out, it was completely unsettling.

Apparently, there are a couple more statues we missed, most specifically The Little Girl with the Knitting Needles was just too far for our tired feet to walk (but too close to respectably Uber). However, we did find the diving lady, but neglected to get a picture, but she was cool in her own right (a simple statue of a naked woman about to dive off a balcony).

Celebrating Brand New Belgians

We also loved the cute little square outside the old fish market entrance called Sint-Veerleplein. It’s also across from Castle of the Count, but the cool thing is that the streetlights in the square connect to the maternity hospitals, and the lights will flash when a baby is born.

A Good Sister Giggle

As long as we are talking fun facts to see, the Marriott runs right along the canal that you should check out. There are two geese inlayed in gold high up on the wall. And they face away from each other. For those not educated on the sleezy side of history, when geese face each other, it’s a sign of romance and love. HOWEVER, when two geese face away from each other it is a sign of a brothel! Yes, we giggled. A Lot.

See all the Cathedrals

Grab a map and go on a walk-about. Saint Bavos, Saint Nicholas, St. Michaels. They are tall and gothic and amazing. Between St. Bavos and St. Nicholas there is a belfry that you can climb for an amazing view of the city. But no worries, there is also an elevator to get you to the top. Also, in this space between Bavos and Nicholas is Sint Baafsplein square and the Stadshal Pavillion, we loved that around the pavilion and down the street towards the square is a tourist route known as the Golden Circle of Ghent there are little gold circles engraved with city scenes depicting the trade route of the middles ages.

And speaking of metal spots in the street, keep your eyes out for some bronze squares. These bronze squares memorialize individuals who were victims of the Nazis. The squares were placed on the last known freely chosen residence of Jewish people before they were deported or killed. They are called Stolpersteine or stumbling stones.

And Finally. . .

Graffiti Alley – an alley down a side street about two blocks off the touristy area. The alley is top to bottom, start to finish, graffiti. It is a very cool street art exhibition (more covered than Freak Alley in Boise, Idaho, if you know it). Oh, and find it, take the walk, and find the chocolate shop smack dab in the middle. Get some chocolate made in house, and a cup of coffee that they import, roast and grind on property.

A Few Post Thoughts

We loved Ghent. It was perfect for a two or three-day addition to a trip to Belgium. Get a waffle, get the frites, get the mussels, get the croquets. Take a canal tour and walk everywhere. It is a great, beautiful, historic, marvelous place. It was borderline dreamy. We never did make it to Brugges, but we also don’t feel like we missed out by focusing our time in Ghent.

Other Posts

• Paris Speakeasy Guide
• London Speakeasy Guide
• Salzburg
• Munich Oktoberfest

I recently was lucky enough to be scheduled for a work trip to Belgium. And you do not go spend a weekend in Belgium without taking the train over to Paris for the weekend, I mean, as long as you have come that far. Naturally, Peggy was not going to pass up this opportunity.

First off, I want to give a fantastic nod to Eliza Dumais for her fantastic 2019 article on drinking culture on Thrillist:  French Drinking Culture, Explained: Are the French Better at Drinking? – Thrillist

I found her humor amazing in researching the French drinking culture and experience. But don’t leave my story yet to go read her experience. We did our research, we loved the French way of wine with meals, and the societal views of bars and pubs. Drinking and the Parisian nightlife are cultural experiences.

In our research there were a couple of speakeasies that came up time and time again. So, we started off with just a short list, which grew once we arrived. We will start with the one of the most popular social media locations:

Lavomatic

The Entrance

Looking for a laundromat? Do not go to Lavomatic. Looking for a cute little hidden cocktail experience, absolutely seek this out. A man sitting out front looking a little sketchy, but no, really more like there to check an ID. Inside the door are some washer and dryers. One of the dryer fronts is fake, find that, push the start button, and open the door front to find the stairs.

The Experience

For our first stop, this was a great way to kick off Paris. Enter up a very dark stairway with neon paintings lead up the curved stairs (France loves their spiral staircases), to a two room second floor. Not a big space, not dark, definitely fun and inviting. Small tables with benches and laundry soap label-covered stools.

The service was friendly, they defaulted to English for us, which was appreciated. We were so happy there, it was a great, upbeat atmosphere. But this was stop number one, so off we had to go. 5 Shakers is a strong start in a new city. Creative entry/challenge and the great service. We were happy we chose well for our first stop in Paris.

Sister Side Note (ssn) – we clearly look like Americans because almost everyone, everywhere, spoke to us in English. We are not proficient in French, but we did study up on the basics. We just never really got the chance to use it.

L’Epicier

The Entrance

You are looking for small middle eastern spice shop. More like a quickie mart than a true spice shop but look for a small space with a shelf in the back full of non-perishable goods. Pulling one of those foods from the shelf is your key to the L’Epicier entrance.

The Experience

Through the hidden door and entry way and then a tall bar in a small-ish room with some booths and short stools, the tables were old stop signs in Arabic looking writing. Yes, these old ladies kept finding tiny stools to sit on, and our knees will thank us for it later. The room was pretty fantastic in a close, intimate way (we had to borrow the pic from their website, below). Lots of glass lanterns hanging from the ceiling gave it a back alley, middle eastern bar feel – which you know we are here for.

ssn – more tiny milk crate stools (see pic below)! What is up with this?

I opted for the tiki bar feel of the Rhum Erection. Yes, partly for the name, but also because it came in a ceramic skull. Having just visited the Paris Catacombs that day, I was feeling the day of the dead vibe. Peggy had the Basilic De Ma Teta, a basic gin and Saint Germain lovely and bright drink. It was Halloween, so the servers were feeling the festive vibe, and they were loving the night, which added to our love of them. This is getting a 5-shaker rating, as they checked every box that we like to see.

Candelaria

The Entrance

Look for the small taco shop on a side street, how American of the French Speakeasy scene. But it’s not quite that simple.

We walked up to a line out the door and thought our chances of getting in were slim. But the cute lady out in front and her Day of the Dead face paint asked us “tacos or cocktails”? We said “cocktails”, she walked us straight back along the taco counter to the plain door at the back, and in we went. Yes, the big line out front was people waiting on food. And that is impressive in a food city like Paris.

The Experience

The plain white door leads to a short hallway and into a dark, smokey feel bar (a lot like I felt at Trona in Austin, only darker). We scored two bar seats, sorted through the tequila and mezcal selections but settled on a gin cocktail with little peach oil float on top. I’d love to tell you all about it, except Peggy agreed that we needed some chips and guacamole. And that was the end of all reason. Who knew Paris could do guacamole. But I am telling you, it was among the best guac I have ever had! And now we figure out why there is a line outside for food.

Loved our bartender. We really started to discover the Paris server vibe. First off, English is their second language, and they try hard to accommodate us – but also, they are friendly and pleasant but not chit-chatty like in the USA. They seem to want to honor your experience and leave you alone to enjoy your evening. They were friendly when we engaged, but they never engaged on their own. So, our scoring on service is a little less strict than we judge our domestic bars. But still, Candelaria is yet another 5-shaker rating for Paris.

The Little Red Door

This was a fun last-minute find. While Peggy was touring the Palace of Versailles, I was lazing about a hotel room struggling to stay awake when I found The Little Red Door on a Google search and was instantly annoyed that we had been a mere two blocks away from this doorway when we hit up Candelaria.  But do you know what that means? A chance to go get tacos after a cocktail!

ssn – Yes! We did go back to Candelaria for tacos and more guacamole. It was fantastic!

The Entrance

We walked right by it. We had to turn around and walk back. There is a little alcove painted with blue and white stripes set back with a (duh) red door. True to its name, stepping up to the red door, it is, in fact, little. As in barely even 5 foot tall (1.5 meters). There was no sign identifying what it was, which we love. There was a printed sign on the left wall that said there was limited space and someone would be with you shortly.

The Experience

There had been a group of three men lingering when we arrived, but they seemed a little confused and walked away moments later. But we waited to see what would happen. The red door has a decorative window that you really couldn’t see through. We assumed someone was keeping an eye out to see when someone showed up. And then! AND THEN, the panel wall to the left of the little red door opened and we were welcomed in.

Surprise! We entered a dimly lit room – romantic mood lighting more than dark and gloomy. We scored a table on the second-floor balcony overlooking the speakeasy. Great place for people watching, including the snooty couple next to us, unattached couple at the end table, and the fun-loving French couple across the aisle from us.

It’s a little too dark to read the cool menu at the table center – but it’s super cute. Almost like a floral arrangement where each leaf is a drink with descriptors. The server was super friendly. I had to ask why Little Red Door had suddenly dropped off the 50 Best Bars list two years ago. He was so nice about it and said they had changed directions and were rebuilding, and that it was his first day, so I was overly impressed he handled my question so well.

Each drink comes with a well-conceived accoutrement. My drink came with an amazing, sharp slice of parmesan; Peggy’s came with a confit shitake mushroom (which honestly looked like snot on her glass, but she loved it). Everyone’s drinks looked fantastic.

And Little Red Door is not only getting our 5-shaker rating, but also making our Top 10 Best Speakeasies list, and our vote to return to the 50 Best Bars list!

ssn – I more than loved my drink. It is a strong contender for Sip of the Year. That confit shitake looks gross but it was delicious! Completely unexpected.

Moonshiner

This is a hard one for us. I’ll explain below. But we keep forgetting “what that other bar was”, which is ridiculous, because it was very memorable. I think we are thrown by a very Parisian place having such a low-brow American name, lol.

The Entrance

Find Vito’s pizzeria (Pizza da Vito, en Francais), a working, open pizza restaurant, which smelled absolutely amazing. Enter, give nod to the man making the dough, and continue back to the walk-in refrigerator door at the back. The door opens into what looks like a storage room, but keep going, there is a second door that opens up to Moonshiner.

The Experience

Peggy and I disagree about the décor. I got a very 1920’s Art Deco Vibe, she felt very 1970’s about it. Could the 1970’s be emulating the Art Deco 1920s? Possibly. The staff was in pinstriped dress shirts, ties, and arm garters, very upscale 1920’s garb.

The cocktails were very, what we had discovered, Parisian speakeasy – a prohibition era cocktail menu with some weird ingredients thrown in that we had to ask what they were. They were good, they were strong, we were happy at that bar.

The staff were the real winners. One was from the US, one was Australian, so English was freely spoken, which made us feel more at home in the middle of Paris. And they all seemed to genuinely love their job and each other. The background music was all funky, alternative but pop American hits, and a couple of servers danced and sang along. It felt good in there (hence my earlier comment about not knowing quite why we keep forgetting this place happened, we loved it).

Again, Paris, coming in with another 5-Shaker winner. There are some great speakeasies to be found in this city!

No Entry

No Entry came with great pre-reviews, but it almost didn’t happen due to opening time and location farther away from our other plans. But we pushed through and made it happen. Once again, we showed up and there was a line out the door, one for reservations and one for walk-ins. Luckily, Peggy thought to ask the hostess for entry, and much like Candelaria, the line was for food. If you have not heard of it, Pink Mamma is a pretty well-known must-try spot in Paris.

The Entrance

No Entry is hidden in the basement of Pink Mamma. So, find the curved stairs to the left just as you enter the restaurant. Down the stairs, and down the hall to the freezer door marked with a “No Entry” sign – not like a bar sign, but like a warning sign.

The Experience

Ok, great feel immediately upon walking in. A little bigger than other speakeasies we visited in Paris. Pink lighting, a lighted, mirrored bar to the right and an L-shaped room to your left. Low bench seating with little stools surrounding low tables. They also had these great giant orbs of glass filled with liquid and plant life lit up around the area. Then a server walks by us with a glowing fishbowl. Now, we are ready for No Entry.

We end up at the bar, which we love. Our server is cute, and nice, and there is the hustle and bustle behind the bar. But everyone is nice and greets us. And lots of glowing fishbowls are being made. I love the almost comic book/magazine feel of the drink menu.

The Napolicious was a solid version of the espresso martini with amaretto and limoncello. I loved that it was served with a side of brioche soaked in limoncello that came with it. Peggy, luckily, got the glowing fishbowl and loved it. We did score this only 4.5 Shakers, simply because of a lack of well-developed theme; however, it could also be that we simply could not justify giving yet another 5-shaker in this city and thought maybe we were being too easy on Paris.

Overall

We knew Paris was going to be impressive. It has a great reputation, and we were excited to work our way through the city (yes, work. Drinking is work, lol). Our one hiccup was the traffic, so planning and staying within certain areas will help your adventure. Cabs and Bolts are plentiful, but you will spend way too much time in a car if you try to get across town too often.

But the drinking scene is strong. The speakeasy game is competitive. And we were extremely impressed. We have a few more spots that we weren’t able to hit, I guess that means we have to go back for more, and soon!!!

Other Paris Speakeasies

Here is a list of other speakeasies on our radar that we did not have time to get to. If you have been or have other recommendations, drop them in the comments.

• Gentlemen 1919 – we stopped by this one but they were closed for a holiday. The exterior is beautiful and we would love to go back.
• Rehab
• Mobster Bar

Other Speakeasy Guides

• Ultimate Speakeasy Guide – Ratings & Rankings
• Las Vegas
• Chicago
• Austin
• Denver
• Kansas City
• Seattle

These are a few of our favorite things

Your Best Tip for Salzburg

Get the Salzburg card.  I wish every major city would do this.  You can buy the Salzburg card in 24, 48, and 72-hour increments.  You can get one at the major transportation hubs, online, or at your hotel.  It is a pre-paid access card to all the major tourist attractions, museums, and public transportation (including the fantastic concert bus).

Use the Salzburg card app onto your phone to get one time admission to the Hohensalzburg Fortress and funicular, Mirabell Palace and Gardens, Hellbrunn Palace and trick fountains, the boat cruise, Mozart’s Residence and Mozart’s Birthplace, plus many more.  There are also discounts to other sights and events in Salzburg to grab additional savings while in this amazing city. 

Public transportation is accessible and easy to navigate, and the Salzburg card will take you wherever you need to go for free. Again, this is awesome if you are still trying to figure out Euros and how to pay properly for things.

Pointing out the Obvious

Salzburg is the home of the Sound of Music

People in Austria, they don’t get it.  They aren’t “into” the movie like Americans, they just know it (and use it) as a tourist trap.  And it’s worth it, the tourist trap experiences, to stand where the hills are alive.

We had the amazing opportunity to stay at Schloss Leopoldskron.  Schloss Leopoldskron is the iconic Von Trapp home on the lake. While the movie was not filmed here, the exterior was used for outdoor scenes.

The Von Trapp Home – Schloss Leopoldskron

When I originally looked there were no rooms available, and I was very disappointed. But a month later I checked again on a whim. We scored two Sound of Music suites (we think they released a block from the wedding taking place there the night we arrived).  I will say, I’m not so sure the Sound of Music Suites were worth the extra money, but you do get the lovely view of the lake and the mountain in the morning.  Even though it is out a tiny window, it definitely makes for a better morning than the view of the courtyard.

But other than the view, the suite itself has only a souvenir shadow box of movie memorabilia and a signed picture of Julie Andrews (same picture is in the lobby, so not exactly an endearing relic).

However, the benefit of staying at Leopoldskron and why it’s a must for superfans, is that it allows you access to the grounds that aren’t available to the public.  It includes breakfast in the palace dining room, and it’s gorgeous (a buffet breakfast, but actually a great job for a buffet).  You can also check out all the palace rooms at your leisure, including the beautiful library, chapel, and the iconic patio and gate from the movie (the fall off the boat and stumble ashore when they realize father is home scene, and the awkwardly playing ball with the Baroness scene).

We were only able to score one night at the palace, but one night was enough and I was glad to be in town for the rest of our visit.

ssn – I was overwhelmed with Sound of Music geekiness. A pinch-me experience and I may have been moved to tears a little bit.

The Original Sound of Music Tour

They’ve pretty much cornered the market on this tour (The Original Sound of Music Tour from Panorama Tours).  The tour leader and driver were fantastic.  The downside, being packed on a tour bus filled to the brim with people.  So, 50 people at each stop with you, which kinda sucked at the gazebo as there are 50 people who all want the perfect shot.

But you do visit all the key sites:  Leopoldskron (which stops at a viewpoint across the lake – yay for us having stayed at the castle and having been on the grounds), the gazebo, a quick view of Nonnberg Abbey, the iconic spots from the Do-Re-Mi scenes, and the chapel where Georg and Maria marry.

The chapel is up in Mon See (Moon Lake), so it is a bit of a ride on the bus to the lake town, but it is beautiful. They also stop at a viewpoint, and sell water, prosecco and beer, so score on that making the trip more reasonable.

We had the amazing luck to visit the chapel while a wedding was in progress, it was gorgeous and a very moving experience. Yes, I cried a little (maybe it was the holy water burning my soul, but whatever).

It is a great tour for fans of the movie, and really is something that needs to be included in your trip to Salzburg.

ssn – the tour was great and the sing-a-long portion of the tour was fun – people really do get into it. However…you cannot leap from bench to bench inside the gazebo while singing “I am sixteen going on seventeen”, the gazebo is locked to prevent the injuries that would occur from this exact stunt. There is no trivia contest (and we were well studied). And there is not a stop for twirling in a meadow while singing “The hills are alive…”. My greatest disappointment.

And as for the rest of Salzburg

Where to stay in Salzburg

We moved on to our hotels.  Pat and I went cheap and stayed at our favorite chain, the Mercure, a bit out of old town.  Peggy used this as her splurge spot and stayed right at the entrance to Altstadt (old town) at Hotel Stein.  I would absolutely recommend this as your splurge spot, mainly due to it’s central location. 

ssn – I cannot say enough about Hotel Stein. I used my American Express Fine Hotels and Resorts (FHR) perks and it was absolutely a win. Perks include a room upgrade, breakfast and $100 hotel credit (which got well-used at the roof top bar). Everything was beautiful, the staff was wonderful and I will absolutely stay here when we return.

The Mercure was solid.  About 900 meter walk to town, so not terrible.  And Mercure’s are typically affordable, clean, and the staff has always been friendly.  If you are looking for a decent middle of the road price, Mercure’s are always a good choice.

A Mini Oktoberfest

Night one, we hit one of the best breweries we have ever been to.  Found on TikTok as it is the oldest brewery in Austria, it also came highly recommended by our hotel clerk.  The Augustiner Brau is huge, a big outdoor biergarten. As in Munich, only serving Augustiner beer, and that was fine, it became one of our favorites of the journey.  As it was still Oktoberfest season, there were plenty of big groups at large tables in traditional dress, but also many of the after-work crowds.  A fun, energetic experience. 

You go inside and pay at a counter, get a stein or Mass and then take it over to the beer counter to be filled.  Then there are stairs going up inside the building. On the second level there are two indoor seating halls, and the walls are filled with walk-up counters for food.  A counter for baked goods, a counter for schnitzel, and counter for all kinds of cheeses.  It was fun, and we loved it.  The potato crisps were amazing, and we loved the soft cheese selection. 

Altstadt Salzburg

Old town Salzburg. It’s beautiful.  Even crammed full of tourists.  For straight-up wandering, shopping, eating, and just “being in Salzburg” Old town is the place to be.  I could have wandered there every afternoon for hours, just because it was so wonderful.  We also found several places to stop for cocktails, which never hurts our experience.  There are also plenty of cute little cafés and bars with outside seating, great for people watching, having a snack and an Aperol Spritz, and just enjoying a slow and easy afternoon.

Cocktails, of course

We loved the sidewalk hospitality of the local bars. While on our way to the Whiskey Museum, we were drawn in to Superstanza. It was clearly a happy hour kind of vibe.  We knew we had to stop in, the energy was pulsating. There were no seats available, so the server and host simply went and found a table and chairs for us and set them out on the sidewalk.  Superstanza is an Italian restaurant, and their food and drinks were fabulous – get the Calamari e Spinaci, it will make you happy! 

We were approached by a bachelorette party that were adorable, they had to find their one, and only, party member who spoke English in order to explain to us that they were selling goodie bags to raise money for the bride. When we donated Euros to buy the bride drinks and wanted nothing from their bag, they whipped out their bottle of schnapps and poured us shots!  So, if you remember pocket ribs from KC, we now have sidewalk schnapps from Salzburg.

Eventually, we did make it to The Whiskey Museum, and this may go down as the best Irish Pub outside of Ireland.  It was tiny, they only served whiskey or beer (no mixed drinks – well, besides the gin and tonic they made me), lively crowd, and eventually live acoustic music.  It was quite the epic bar experience in Salzburg to find a piece of Ireland.

Dinner Splurge

The second night we had reservations at St. Peter Stiftskulinarium.  This restaurant has operated since the year 803, and while it is the oldest restaurant in the world, it has not operated continuously so it does not hold the Guinness World Record. It was amazing, built into a cave, open air at the entrance and the front seating area.  All the chairs have blankets provided for guests, so it can get chilly in the evenings.  But it was beautiful. They get a big thumbs up for the ambiance.

And the food

Start by getting the bread. It’s optional for the entire table, and priced per person, but you are going to want it.  The bread is baked fresh daily at a local baker, and it’s served with butter that has added flavors that change nightly.  We had a whipped molasses butter that I still dream about served with a rye bread.

Aside from their main menu of elegant dishes, they have three kinds of steak: Black Angus (American), Simmentaler (Austrian veal), and Wagyu.  We opted to go local with the veal.  It’s sold by the gram, and they bring out the current sheet to inform you of the sizes they have left.  They only get so many from the local butcher each night.  We had 5 pm reservations when they opened, Pat and Peggy got the last two of the evening of the Simmentaler, so if you are planning on a steak, plan to go early.  I opted for the gnocchi in a cream sauce that had sausage and roasted pears.  Naturally we had the burnt cream for dessert.

ssn – we literally got the last 2 ribeyes, and they were incredible! While we felt lucky (and special!), imagine getting there for your “early” reservation and not having any steak options left?

What else to eat in Salzburg

The dessert Salzburg is known for, aside from the apelstrudel, is the Salzburger Nockerl.  It’s a souffle dessert, almost like a meringue, but with a fraction of the sugar, so very much like a whipped egg white that has been put under the broiler and browned.  It has 3 “peaks” as a nod to the 3 local alpine peaks, and is served on a bed of cranberries. You get that tart cranberry taste on a bed of light fluffiness, and we loved that.  We had both the Nockerl and the Apelstrudel at the Café Mozart.

We made sure to make time for some authentic schnitzel.  For this go to Restaurant Meissl & Schadn Salzburg. You will know it by the big picture windows where you can watch them making the schnitzel.  This drew us in.  You have the option of ordering your schnitzel fried in vegetable oil, butter, or lard.  We had the one in butter and the one in lard.  The butter one was lighter, but the lard had a deeper flavor. 

Sightseeing in Salzburg – Our Favorite Sights

You Can’t Miss the Fortress

High on the hill (like a lonely goat herder) overlooking the city is the Hohensalzburg Fortress.  This is the biggest, fully preserved castle in Central Europe.  The views are spectacular, and the history of the fortress is well presented throughout the castle in the form of the Fortress Museum, the Marionette Museum, many chambers, halls, and displays.  There are several cafes, interactive games, and galleries. 

You can walk the entire way up to the fortress or take the funicular (included in your Salzburg card) the 200 meters to the top.  It runs every 10 minutes and takes only one full minute to rise to a height of 536 meters.

Salzburg Cathedral, Churches and a Cemetery

In Salzburg, you can’t look in any direction without seeing a Baroque dome or steeple. The “City of Churches” is also a UNESCO World Heritage site. The most famous and most sacred is Salzburg Cathedral. The dome and towers are impressive and it is definitely worth a peek inside.

On the walk down from the fortress, we detoured through St. Peter’s cemetery – it was fascinating and beautiful.

The Mozart Experience

Mozart was born in Salzburg.  And they won’t let you forget it.  There are museums at Mozart’s birthplace and his childhood residence. 

We opted for the residence as everything we had read told us they had similar knowledge and exhibits.

This was my husbands one big “Must Do”. 

So, we went. 

It was cool to see Mozart’s childhood piano, see original papers with his original scores, and to see the history of Mozart’s life (Interesting fact, he died in debt and poverty). His work is amazing, but wandering about looking at artifacts of his life is not quite so mind-blowing.  Let’s just say the highlight was the Bölzlschiessen targets – a dart shooting game in which they depicted satirical images to taunt their friends and family.

But it’s free with your Salzburg card and should only take an hour of your time, so do it.  For the love of history and the arts, it’s kind of cool for that aspect.

Mirabell Palace and Garden

We hit this up for the Do-Re-Mi effect.  The movie cut scenes of “town” were mainly shot in this area. The Pegasus fountain, the steps, and the tunnel they run through, all were shot from the Mirabell Garden.  The Gardens are beautiful, and a lovely place to wander.  We couldn’t figure out where the palace entrance was and ended up in yet another palace courtyard (which seemed to be a theme for us this trip, wandering into courtyards for places we couldn’t figure out how to get in to), but we wandered the grounds, and it was fun just to be around all the iconic places we had seen our whole life in the movie.

Salzburg Salt Mine Tour

Also on the “must do” list is a salt mine tour. After all, salt is right there in the name “Salz”burg! Salt, or “white gold” was the main trade industry that brought wealth and power to Salzburg. We hit the Berchtesgaden Salt Mine on our way from Salzburg to Hallstatt and it was quite the experience! The guided tours require that you wear coveralls, the underground mine is consistently cool 54 F/12 C.

It starts with an awkward train ride where you straddle the seat and basically spoon the person in front of you. From there, you have headsets to describe the sights – the tour guide presents in German. The highlight for most people are the series of slides that the miners use to get to lower levels. These STEEP, wooden slides are not for the faint-hearted.

Again, you straddle the double raised rail (as opposed to sitting down in it like a typical slide) and you, plus the up to four people riding with you all raise your feet to start the sliding. You keep your feet raised while zipping down and trying not to fall over. Yes, this is their idea of fun, clearly not mine. I almost chickened out the first time, and the second time, but I reasoned that it was only 30 seconds out of my life, and I was probably not the first fat chick to do this, so chances of survival were pretty good.

The rest of the tour is interesting although a bit long. The conclusion is a slow drift across Mirror Lake with the salt walls illuminated and sparkly. It was beautiful and unique.

So long, farewell, auf wiedersehen, good-bye

We found Salzburg to be a charming little city, and still can’t figure out why we left.  We expected to love it but were still blown away by the beauty, charm, and old European feel. This place is very worth a visit and an add to your Austria itinerary.

Related Posts from this trip

• Oktoberfest in Munich

We wanted to go to Oktoberfest in 2020, but then the world shut down.  And again in 2021.  In 2022, we had prior commitments that caused a third year of missing this bucket list experience. So, 2023 was our year and we were committed to making it happen.

Oktoberfest planning starts in the Spring

Table reservations for all the beer tents open in April or May in the spring prior to Oktoberfest.  You will want to jump on these reservations.  Yes, even if you are going during the week and during the day.

Reservations are for four-hour blocks, 12-4 or 4-8.  And you must reserve the entire table.  There are no tables for two or four.  Tables in Oktoberfest are for eight to ten people.

And while entry into the tents is free, to make a reservation you must pre-pay for two “Maß” of beer and a half-chicken per person.  So, plan to pay approximately 350 euros to make this reservation.  And then plan to bring friends!!  And enjoy knowing that once you get there those first couple of liters are covered!

Sister Side Note (ssn) – In German, the curly B as in Maß is pronounced like double s. So Mass. Mass is the unit of measure for a standard mug of beer (one liter). The beers are only served by the Mass. Don’t confuse this with a “stein” which is always stoneware/ceramic (literally means “stone”) and are not used.

About those famous Oktoberfest tents

Each tent is owned and operated by a specific brewery.  And they only serve their own beer.  Paulaner only serves Paulaner, Hofbrau only serves Hofbrau, you get the picture. 

You can choose which tent to reserve a table in by the brewery you like best.  Or you can choose it based on the atmosphere you wish to experience. It is worth considering what you view your Oktoberfest experience to look like and pick a tent accordingly. They are all gorgeous in their own style, it is all just your own style and personality that will dictate which one best suit you.  You will get a feel for what is most “you” when you go to the Oktoberfest website to book the tent.  Each tent has their own booking landing page, and it is very much uniquely their theme.

ssn – I was not prepared for how HUGE these tents are! The largest is Hofbrau and it holds over 7,000 people plus another 3,000 outside!

The list of tents

Reserve your seat for the big tents by going to the official Oktoberfest Munchen website and choose from the following big tents:

Armbrustschützen-Festzelt

Augustiner-Festhalle

Festzelt Tradition

Hacker-Festzelt

Herzkasperlzelt

Hofbräu-Festzelt

Löwenbräu-Festzelt

Marstall Festzelt

Paulaner Festzelt

Pschorr-Bräurosl

Schottenhamel-Festhalle

Schützen-Festzelt

Schützenlisl

Starting to plan late? No worries!

Some tents reserve a certain number of spaces for day-of attendees.  They have check-in tables at the entrance and if you get there early the day-of, you can score some non-res spots. And the smaller outside beer gardens do not have table reservations, so if it’s a nice day this is a great option.

Just be prepared: the tables are packed, especially on sunny days. They are all community tables, so you will be sitting with strangers, you will be packed in tight back-to-back and side-to-side with other tables.  But it is very fun.

ssn – we were able to get a table outside in a beer garden on our first day and then were able to join a table in the walk-in section at a different tent. Highly recommend the inside tables (even if you have to stand). This way you get the full experience with the band, the hourly singing of “Ein Prosit”, the people watching and the sing-a-longs.

And Remember to Eat

Oktoberfest is a marathon in beer drinking.  The first one goes down pretty fast, so does the second one.  If you are going for a third Mass, you will want to be sure to eat.  The tents have great food. The half of a roasted chicken is usually the favorite. They have been doing this for decades, so the recipe and cooking are dialed in and delicious.

ssn – I am not a beer drinker but obviously I sacrificed for this trip. After the first Mass, I switched to Radlers – half beer, half sparkling lemonade – similar to what we call a shandy. Radlers are delicious and can be found everywhere!

Always get a pretzel.  There are separate pretzel ladies that wander through the tables with baskets full of pretzels.  There’s a reason why they are so well known.  But here’s one of our biggest tips:  on the menu is something called Obatzda.  It is one of the best cheese concoctions known to man.  Camembert cheese chunked up in a cream-cheesy spreadable cheese, it looks like spreadable cheddar cheese, but according to the recipe the orange color comes from the paprika.  It is a life changing discovery, and I’m glad we were warned ahead of time and started ordering this from day one.  You’ve now been told, don’t doubt us on this one.

There are menus for each table, typical German favorites like schwienebraten, schnitzel, ribs, and other specialties of the tent (they vary by tent).  

A little heads up, Brats aren’t such a thing in Munich like they are tto us in the states.  They are mainly walking foods for casual events (yes, they have booths on the Oktoberfest grounds). 

Those gingerbread hearts

They are everywhere.

But they really aren’t intended for eating.

They are kitschy touristy decorations.

They’re cute, but you really don’t want to plan to eat one.  They aren’t good.

Outside the tent

Yes, there are other things to do besides drinking beer. (PS, there are two wine tents for your weirdo winos).

Oktoberfest is very much akin to the State Fairs in the US.  There are many rides and games.  They are privately owned and operated. And the families have been doing this for generations.  They are pretty dialed in on the décor.  They are safe. And you pay individually at each ride.  No wristbands. So, bring Euros.

There are also food vendors serving everything from candied nuts to tornado potato (spiralized potatoes on sticks, they are crazy good, I’m obsessed).  There are also candy stands, lots of them. 

Oktoberfest is very family friendly and has lots of fun food and games for the kids.  This is a traditional celebration, not just a big drinking event.

What to Wear

Traditional dress is best.  Lederhosen for the men and Dirndls for the ladies. Or the newest fashion:  ladyhosen (lederhosen for women, super cute!).

Do not, emphasize NOT, wear costumes.  Do not buy Halloween costumes thinking they will pass.  You will look silly and it’s disrespectful to make their culture look cheap and costume-y.

Luckily, there are plenty of places to buy dresses and Lederhosen in Munich.  Everything from small tailored places, to larger more commercial places, there are appropriate outfits for everyone.

And let me assure you, there are plus size choices available.  They are European sizes, but as a US 20/22, I was able for have 5 or 6 choices in my size (50), and there were four sizes bigger than the one I needed. 

Plan this as a budget item, they are not cheap and will run you about $200. However, they are well made, and worth taking the extra step to make your visit more authentic and to help you feel proper.  And it’s fun!

We found plus-size friendly dirndls at Angermaier Trachten just off Marienplatz.

ssn – Dirndls are not just an Oktoberfest thing – they are worn year-round for traditional celebrations, weddings and other events. Although you should definitely buy your dirndl/lederhosen in Munich, I did purchase my dirndl blouse on Amazon. It was great and substantially cheaper.

Our favorite Oktoberfest Tip

Your first morning in Munich, schedule a tour. It will help you get adjusted to the rhythm of Oktoberfest and Munich. You will feel much more prepared when you go back to Oktoberfest on your own.  Plus, you get a lot of the history of the festival, the beer industry and Munich.

Oktoberfest Experience Tour

We did the Drink Like a Local tour, and it was awesome.  The tour started around 9 am with a walking tour of the Marienplatz area of Munich. We will learn about the beer culture, architecture and some great information about the post-WWII rebuild.  Then you walk to breakfast, where it’s a traditional Munich breakfast of Weisswurst, pretzels, and beer (and get a lesson for a proper pour).

Weisswurst is a breakfast sausage, typically only served before noon and is a Munich specialty.  It’s a white veal sausage that is boiled, not grilled or fried.  They are very good, but taking off the outer skin of the sausage makes you think of taking off a condom and is good for a giggle.

After breakfast, you hop on the train to the Wiezen, where you continue on with your tour through the Oktoberfest grounds.  You get insider tips, historical knowledge, and get to see everything. It helps to get comfortable with the layout and the goings on, plus is fascinating to hear all the little details that go in to making Oktoberfest happen. Like locals who work at the festival get all their wages tax free, a huge incentive for them to work these weeks.

ssn – Wiezen means meadow or grasslands and this is the term that the locals use to refer to Oktoberfest. “I’m going to the Wiezen”

The best part of this tour is that it comes with table reservations.  If you were late to the reservation game, this is a great way to get them.

Tour table reservations

With your tour, you get a group table from noon – four.  It includes your first two beers and a $15 credit towards food.  Always remember to tip your server!  This isn’t just a recommendation, it ensures they will keep coming back…plus it’s the right thing to do – they work so hard! Tables are balcony level, and give you a great view of the tent, band, and people watching. 

Our reservation also came with a meat and cheese platter, which scored that beloved Obatzda and lots of radishes. 

You will meet so many interesting and fun people on your tour! So be open to talking and sharing, and be ready for lots of “Prost!-ing” with your new friends.

A few last Oktoberfest tips

Carry cash.  Everything is a cash business.

Be respectful of the workers, they are working hard.

Puke hill is out behind the Hofbrau.  Yes, it’s a thing.  No, it’s not where you want to be.

It’s a marathon, not a sprint.

If you don’t want to get kicked out, don’t stand on the tables.

ssn – to be fair, I’ve always heard about everyone standing on benches, singing and Prost-ing. But was slightly disappointed that it wasn’t a thing on our visit. I’m sure if we would have been there on a weekend night, it would have been! And not once did any band play “Country Roads”!

If you decide you ARE done and want to go out in style, get up on the table, but be prepared that you are expected to chug whatever beer you have left in your Mass while the crowd cheers you on.  Don’t embarrass yourself, CHUG THAT BEER.

Related Posts

• Christmas on the Rhine
• Salzburg

Leaving Mykonos

As promised in the last post, I’ll start with the ugly – the ferry terminal in Mykonos. It was horrible! We had booked a mid-morning ferry to Paros but it was running late (like they tend to do). This part was not a big deal, but we got to the ferry terminal and there were swarms of people. We surely hadn’t seen these crowds during our short stay on the island so I don’t know where they had been hiding!

As the ferry was ready to board, utter chaos ensued. It was every person for themselves! People were crowding up the ramp and into the cargo area trying to store their luggage. There was a bottleneck at the stairwells where tickets were scanned before you could get to the passenger areas on the upper decks. We were maybe 20 or 30 minutes underway before we were able to get upstairs.

We did manage to get a great standing room only spot at the back of the ship for what remained of our 45 minute trip. The weather and the view really made up for the earlier hassle. We were able to put that behind us and look forward to Paros.

Arriving in Paros

We arrived at Paros at the ferry terminal in Parikia. Paros is the second largest of the Cyclades by area (behind Naxos) and third most popular in tourism (behind Santorini and Mykonos). This fact surprised me a little – we met very few people in our travels that had been or were going to Paros. Neighboring islands of Naxos and Ios seemed to be the most popular destinations for tourists we talked to. At one point, we were questioning ourselves for not choosing Naxos instead.

With fewer guests disembarking at Paros, the process was smooth. Our transfer, arranged by the hotel, was waiting to take us to Villa Isabella in Naousa (or Naoussa, I will use both).

Naousa is a charming fishing village on the Northeastern corner of Paros, about 15-20 minutes from Parikia. I’m not going to lie, I mostly selected Naousa based on the idyllic social media pictures with very little research. We had a lot of activity planned for our other stops, this one was meant to relax and go with the flow.

There was a couple on the van with us that was staying in an Airbnb in Naoussa. As we drove into town, the driver kept winding uphill, further and further. I swear, I looked at Kelli and said, “oh, hell no”. No way I am walking up this hill from the waterfront area of town. Luckily, it was for the other people!!

Villa Isabella

The driver took us to our adorable Villa Isabella where Isabella greeted us out front with hugs and warm welcomes. She made us feel like old friends. Isabella introduced us to her mom, who offered to take our bags. She was the sweetest, but there was no chance we would have let her do that.

This accommodation was almost too good to be true. The room itself had everything we could have needed but the impressive part was the private patio area and the spectacular view.

---

---

Isabella gave us directions to town along with a list of recommended restaurants and bars. We dropped our things and off we went.

Naoussa

Down some stairs and maybe 5 minutes away was the central part of town and the marina. The town has a mix of boat tours and working fishing vessels, outdoor dining and winding alleys filled with charming shops and restaurants. The ruins of a 15th century Venetian fortress, Kastelli of Paros, sits on a jetty at the marina and makes an interesting spot to explore.

Naousa is definitely not your authentic, traditional, Greek village. It is tourism-focused but not overrun with people. It is a little bougie, posh and absolutely captivating. And I loved every bit of it!

I would apologize in advance for all the photos, but I wouldn’t mean it. I just couldn’t narrow it down!

---

---

---

Sunset at Villa Isabella

After exploring the town, grabbing dinner at one of Isabella’s recommended spots (a seafood platter, to die for!), we bought some wine from the local wine shop and headed back to the hotel. That patio was calling out to be enjoyed. The sunset views did not disappoint. This level of contentment is what all vacations should aspire to!

Paros – Day 2

Our stay came with breakfast included, we only had to let Isabella know when we were ready. After ordering breakfast, we headed out to the patio – it was nearly impossible to stay away from that view! Breakfast was brought down and set out on the patio table. This breakfast!! It seems simple, but it goes down as one of the best hotel breakfasts EVER! Coffee, Greek yogurt with honey, fruit and granola, pastries and grilled cheese sandwiches. Yes, grilled cheese sandwiches for breakfast. I’m hooked, who knew?

Exploring the Island

We headed to town with no real plans although we were hoping to rent a side-by-side ATV. The first rental shop that we found had one available. It was $100 cash, no credit card needed, just my US drivers license. There may have been a waiver, but I don’t recall; there was certainly none of the typical rental paperwork. After a very brief instruction, the owner told us to have it back the next morning. What?? The next morning? He seemed surprisingly unconcerned, probably because he hadn’t seen me drive.

The rental owner assured we could drive on any road, paved or not, unless otherwise posted. We took off with no real agenda. Road signs, in English, were everywhere so getting lost did not seem like a possibility. There is just something so carefree about driving around, wind blowing, island views and no place to be.

Lefkes

After a quick stop at the Tower of Hellenistic Period ruins (not much to see here), we headed towards the center of the island.

The first town we came to was Lefkes. Lefkes is the highest village on the island and is quite mountainous. The town was picturesque with a few cafes and tavernas plus views in all directions.

Piso Livadi

We came down from the mountains and followed the east coast of the island to the small seaside village of Piso Livadi. It was laid back and felt like a sleepy beach town. We wandered the shops and along the marina and sea wall.

A short distance from town, we took a quick detour to Punda beach just to walk in the sand and stick our feet in the water. In now our fifth day in Greece, our feet had barely touched the Aegean.

Krotiri

Unaware of time or distance, we headed back towards the west side of the island. Beyond Krotiri, to the little peninsula that sits to the north of Parikia. There are some interesting sites, including caves that have impossibly beautiful views to the sea (Cave of Archilochos), along with the Church of Agios Fokos. Sadly, we never found the cave trail but take a look at that link, you will not be disappointed!

We never found a way over the crest to see the water.

---

---

Back to Naousa

Running low on fuel and daylight, we headed back to Naousa. We dropped the ATV off and walked to town for some amazing gyros, gelato and a last wander around our beautiful town before we left the next morning.

Obviously, we were not leaving without another patio breakfast. But soon after we had a ferry to catch. First, we were lucky enough to meet up with Steven (The Thorough Tripper) and Mrs. TT for a coffee in Parikia before we caught the ferry. How great is it that they were there at the same time? Meeting up with travel friends is so much fun!

From there we were on the Blue Star Ferry, the best of the ferry options. We ignored our assigned seats and found a great spot on the covered deck with snacks and drinks and lively people all around us. Our next stop was our last, Santorini.

Paros was hard to leave. This island infuses relaxation with a bit of adventure and stunning beauty. In fact, it is the one place that Kelli and I continually talk about going back to on the next trip to Greece.

Other Greece Adventures

• Athens
• Mykonos

How to Get From Athens to Mykonos

The most common way to get to Mykonos is the ferry, although flights are readily available. We opted for a ferry, mainly for ease, but also for the Aegean views and to see other islands along the way. This would be our first ferry experience in Greece. We had a very early (still dark) departure from Piraeus Port in Athens on WorldChampion Jet. We had no way of knowing at this point, but this would be the easiest, most efficient embarkation of the trip.

If you want to know all things ferry, go read this fantastically informative blog by our friend Steven, The Thorough Tripper: Riding the Blue Star Ferry to a Greek Island. Spoiler alert…we will find out after trying 4 different ferry lines, that Blue Star was indeed, the best.

Where to Stay in Mykonos

Mykonos is the most visited of the Cycladic Islands and it really is quite a large island (relatively speaking, of course). When looking at hotels, it is a bit overwhelming. I’m going to narrow it down to 2 locations you’ll be choosing from – Chora (or Mykonos Town) or any of the beach towns along the southern/southwest coast. Of course there are some 5*, insanely gorgeous hotels nearer Tourlos/Agios Stefanos (close to the port) and in Elia, on the South/East coast.

Since we were only spending one night, we chose Chora. We wanted a hotel in town with a fairly quick and easy walk to the sights. Additionally, we had a sunset cruise out of Ornos, one of the picturesque southern coastal villages so we were able to see that as well.

We chose Vencia Boutique Hotel and it was perfect. The service was impeccable, the room was amazing and the views were incredible.

---

---

Exploring Mykonos Town (Chora)

Our ferry arrived in Toulos (the new port) fairly early and we had a driver (arranged by the hotel) waiting for us. Tip: most hotels will arrange transportation upon request and for a small fee. We did this every stay and it took so much stress away – ferry terminals are chaotic (at best) so having pre-arranged shuttles just made it easier.

We dropped out bags – and our jaws when we saw our room and the spectacular views! It was tempting to stick around for the hotel pool but we only had the day and the entirety of Chora to explora, haha.

The walkway from the hotel was downhill and well-marked. But whew, it was already hot!

Keep in mind that we had only seen Athens until this point. So the charming alleys with their cobblestone streets, overhanging bougainvillea and colorful shutters were captivating. In the back of my mind, I wondered if all of the beautiful Instagram photos were exaggerated or if they would be ruined by crowds? Needless to say, I was not disappointed. I fell immediately in love with this little town.

---

---

---

Mykonos Windmills

We made our way to one of the most iconic spots in Mykonos, the Mykonos Windmills. These flour mills are the most notable landmark in town – visible from most every point. They are very cool architecturally (and it turns out they have a version of them on most of the Cyclades). There are windmills available to stay in and I really, really wanted to do this but none were available during our stay.

After some requests…this is the hotel I was interested in but there are some Airbnb opportunities as well. Absolute Mykonos Traditional Windmill

Little Venice

I already mentioned it was hot! And it was September…I can’t imagine how August was! We stepped into a little seaside bar to have a drink and get out of the heat. It turned out to be a wonderful break. The views of Little Venice and the Windmills were wonderful. We chatted with people around us and then there was a visit from a local celebrity! Petros the Pelican. So much fun!

Back to the Hotel

After a delicious lunch, unfortunately, we were running short on time. We didn’t have time to get to the one other “must see” on my list. The Panagia Paraportiani – the whitewashed complex of 5 churches, built between the 15th and 17th centuries.

We had reservations for a sunset cruise and we were excited for our first Mykonos sunset.

Sunset Cruise

Now, I have done many, many sunset cruises and this was a unique experience. After a bit of confusion about which port we were leaving from, we arrived at Ornos beach to meet our tour group. I would say there were 25 people or so, and the boat was not yet there. We waited a bit before an old fishing boat pulled up and they ushered us onboard. Were they shuttling us to a bigger boat? What was happening?

As people started getting on board, it was very clear that there were not seats for everyone. So…you sit on the “roof” of the below deck quarters. Really!! Not sure how the captain was going to see around the 10-ish of us on the roof in front of him but we were there to trust the process. People were silent. I’m not sure anyone thought this was what they signed up for.

Not long after we got going, the tour guide started popping corks and pouring champagne. Then people loosened up. Chatting (Kelli made a new friend who spilled his life story), singing along to the music, moods were definitely improved.

We cruised out of the bay at Ornos and around the coastline. It was spectacular. The sun was setting, the island was beautiful, the water was relaxing and everyone was so happy (could have been the champagne at this point)!

Late Dinner in Ornos

After the cruise, we had some time before our driver came back for us and we needed to eat! This part of Mykonos was very beach club and resort-y. These hotels would be amazing if you were looking for some relaxation and beach time. And I’m sure these places are super fun at night, in season. It was pretty deserted on this night. We found a sushi place, Kuzina. It was delicious and just the right bite after a beautiful evening on the water.

Goodbye to Mykonos and Vencia

We arrived back at our hotel and decided to grab some drinks and soak in the view before we left in the morning. I cannot say enough good things about the Vencia hotel, and I can wholeheartedly say I loved Mykonos. I know there was a lot we did not experience and I think another night would have been the perfect amount of time.

The next morning we would be heading back to the ferry, onward to Paros. It was a horrible experience, so I’m going to leave this here and finish that story in the next post!

More Adventures in Greece

• Athens
• Paros

You remember my travel buddy, Kelli, from our Epic Utah Road trip?  Well, we are back with a much grander trip.  This time, Greece! We started off in Athens for a short stop before setting sail (or ferry, as the case may be) to Mykonos, Paros and Santorini.

Athens

Kelli and I are both planners and this always works out so well.  You know how you hear about friends where one is always planning and the other just shows up and goes with the flow?  We both research and seek out the best of things to see & do, but at the same time, we are both happy to go along with the other’s choice.  It is such a blessing!

We would be in Athens for 2 nights and had only prebooked dinner on the first night and a food tour on the one full day – the only other obligatory sight was the Parthenon (duh!).

After taking a taxi from the airport, we arrived at our beautiful hotel, The Electra Palace.  The smallest glitch, we had not confirmed with the taxi driver that he took credit cards.  So, we arrived at the hotel and needed cash.  The driver was so sweet and told us that although there were no ATMs in the immediate area, the hotel would loan us the cash.  So I ran in, explained the situation and they gladly gave me the €35 with a promise to return it in cash when I had the opportunity.  It was the first time that’s happened and just a small glimpse of the Greek hospitality that we would experience over the next 9 days.

Our hotel was ideally located in the Plaka neighborhood – a touristy shopping district at the foot of the Parthenon.  The hotel was beautiful but the rooftop view of the Acropolis…STUNNING.

Sidenote:  The Acropolis of Athens is the entire hilltop area – Acropolis meaning “highest point, extremity”.  The Parthenon is the most famous of the architectural ruins that remains on the Acropolis.  The Parthenon was a temple dedicated to the goddess Athena.

The Plaka

That first day was spent wandering around Plaka.  Since it was late September, the crowds were fairly light.  It is the perfect neighborhood for shopping, strolling, and getting acclimated to the area.  There are no wrong turns here, explore alleys, squares and the staired-stepped streets lined with cafes.

---

---

---

The walk to dinner was just under a kilometer but we took a quick detour to stop by the oldest distillery in Athens, Brettos.  Brettos is in the Plaka and is a must do – you will be immediately drawn into this lively bar.  The walls are lined with colorful bottles of liqueurs, brandy, ouzo and other house made spirits.  The drink menu is extensive and delicious.

After a pre-dinner drink, we continued our walk out of Plaka into the City Center.

Dinner With a View

As I mentioned earlier, we had dinner reservations for that evening.  NYX Rooftop came highly recommended for both views and food.  NYX is a Japanese Fusion restaurant – it felt criminal not to have Greek food on that first night, but we soon got over it.

The restaurant is located in the Academias Hotel, an Autograph Collection by Marriott.  The hotel was really stylish and the lobby bar was inviting but we were headed up to the top.

Now, I know, I am a bit dramatic when it comes to views, but I literally got teary as we exited the elevator and were walked to our patio table.  I know the staff thought we were crazy, but we were in awe.  The view truly takes your breath away. 

Just look…

Sure, we had seen the Acropolis and the Parthenon throughout the day, but that doesn’t prepare you for this perspective.  Then add to that, getting to see the sun set beyond the gulf was an incredible experience.  Not to be slighted, the food was delicious, and the service was wonderful.

Back to our own Rooftop bar

We walked back to our hotel, happy but exhausted (let’s not forget we had just arrived that morning!).

But first, we had to check out our hotel’s rooftop lounge.  Although the night was chilly, we sat outside to enjoy a nightcap and the spectacular Parthenon.

Athens Day 2

Athens Day 2 was an early one.  We wanted to walk up to the Acropolis before the crowds.  It happened to be a holiday in Greece where admission was free so we knew it would be crowded.

The Acropolis – Hike Up

The climb up the hill was not easy but was not as difficult as I feared and only one wrong turn.  Always prepare for the worst!  It was early so the day wasn’t as hot as it would get – I can’t imagine doing this in August, yikes! 

There are some great sights along the walk including the Theater of Dionysus.

The Acropolis – At the Top

We got to the top and there was already a line although it wasn’t long – the gates didn’t open until 9:00 so there was a bit of a wait. 

At the top there is a small souvenir shop and a coffee stand (although you can’t take the coffee in with you).  There are also local guides walking around and offering their services.

The Parthenon and surrounding ruins are pretty amazing.  The age of these structures, and the size and detail of the carvings are unbelievable.  It might be weird, but I just wanted to touch the marble (and it is definitely prohibited!).  Aside from the Parthenon, my favorites were the Temple of Athena Nike and Erechtheion.

Be sure to check out the Acropolis Museum as well.  We did not have time, but everyone we spoke to raved about it.

---

---

---

---

Athens Food Tour

We had booked the Gourmet Food Walking Tour of Athens.  I always love a food tour – it is such a great way to taste a variety of local specialties plus you get stories and history from the guides that you wouldn’t get on your own.

We met our guide and tour mates at Monastriaki Square.  Monastriaki Square is very large, there are 2 churches, cafes, shopping and an open space where people gather.

Our first stop was Bougatsadiko Psirri for pastries.  We sampled several varieties of Bougatsa – phyllo based sweet and/or savory pastry, think spanakopita & similar – all really good.  But watching the bakers make these was fascinating!

We walked through this alley on our way….Little Kook cafe decorates for each season. So cool!  I should also mention that graffiti is EVERYWHERE in Athens.  Every building, every surface. 

The second stop was Mokka for authentic Greek coffee!  I previously thought this was Turkish coffee, but the Greeks also prepare coffee this way.  The rich coffee is mixed with sugar and water then heated in a briki over hot sand until it foams up.  You order it sweet, a little sweet or not sweet.  Once the coffee is poured from the briki into your cup, you let it sit for a few minutes so the grounds settle before drinking it.  (I had an unenjoyable experience by not being told that earlier in the day)

The third stop Central Athens Varvakios Market – we walked through the fish market and the meat market before stopping to sample some produce, nuts and olives.

Fourth stop was Krinos for the sweet Loukoumades – Greek donuts served with honey & cinnamon syrup or chocolate.  These were delicious, very traditional but one was more than enough!  So sweet!

Our next stop was a lot of food!  Our guide took us to a meze restaurant.  We tasted ouzo (nope!) and ate traditional meze plates – appetizer or tapas like plates of food.

Can you believe how much food was on this tour??  And we aren’t even done!

Next up was a wine and vinegar tasting with small bites.  The wine was all delicious, the vinegar was amazing, and we are still talking about the Greek salad skewers.  Yum!

Our final, and favorite stop of the day…Gyros!!  I was waiting for this one and it did not disappoint.  Savvas served up amazing Gyros with fries.  I don’t know how we managed to eat another bite, but they were so good we had to!

Back to the Hotel

We took the long way back to the hotel to try to walk off some of that food!  It was a great day and could only be made better by a final evening on the rooftop patio, watching the sun set alongside the Acropolis.

We had a very early ferry to Mykonos the next morning, so stay tuned!

More Adventures in Greece:

• Mykonos
• Paros

Booking our Christmas on the Rhine Viking River Cruise

Our mom and I had originally booked the “In Search of Northern Lights” ocean voyage for January 2022. When that was canceled, our credits had to be used by January 2023 and with our schedules, we needed to book something in late autumn – hence, the Christmas on the Rhine. The European Christmas Markets had long been in my plans and this really seemed like an ideal way to do it.

Seems like everyone was in the same boat (literally, haha) – these were quickly sold out and we literally got the last cabin on the Viking Kara, sailing from Amsterdam, Netherlands to Basel, Switzerland in 8 festive days.

Very sadly, Patti wasn’t with us. I would have loved to experience this with her.

The Ship

This was my first ever cruise so while I don’t have other experiences to compare to, I feel like maybe I’ve now set the bar too high. Let me start by saying, everything you hear about Viking is true. The staff is incredibly kind and attentive. The service was impeccable, the food was fantastic and the atmosphere was relaxing.

Our ship had 183 people total. Like I said, we got the very last room on the ship so unfortunately it was a standard room (half height windows) but it was comfortable and well-appointed with everything we needed – even heated bathroom floors.

The food menu changes daily although there are some standards that are always available. The dinner is themed to the destination so it was really nice to try regional specialties. Food service times are limited (unlike the big cruise lines) but since the Christmas Markets have so much yummy food, this was not an issue. The lounge serves higher-end brands and can make almost anything you think of.

Day 1 – Amsterdam, The Netherlands

I was very excited for Amsterdam. The canals, The Van Gogh museum, Anne Frank house. But the weather was not cooperative and I was definitely feeling the beginnings of a cold. It was pouring rain/sleet mix and quite miserable. Mom and I walked around for an hour or so but quickly decided that it was not happening that day.

Day 2 – Dordrecht, The Netherlands

Since most of the sailing is done overnight, we woke to new cities most mornings and the excursions started early. At each destination, the cruise offers an included guided walking tour or optional excursions for unique activities for an additional cost.

In trying to catch up from the previous day’s travel, we opted to tour on our own. We woke up to beautiful, crisp weather in Dordrecht, the oldest city in Holland. It was a quiet and charming walk to see waterways, bridges, and windmills.

Day 3 – Dusseldorf and Cologne, Germany

Dusseldorf

The stretch of river from Dordrecht to Dusseldorf is the longest of the voyage. We didn’t pull into Dusseldorf until breakfast time on Day 3. This made for a nice, leisurely (ish?) morning. It was our first Christmas Market day and it was the first day of the Christmas Market for this season.

Dusseldorf was a great town – a mix of modern and historic but today’s energy was all about the Christmas Markets. I was charmed at first sight. The small, holiday huts with handcrafted Christmas decor, traditional treats and the famous gluhwein.

Gluhwein is hot, mulled wine (and surprisingly different at each stop of the trip!) served in small, collectible mugs. When you order, you pay a small deposit on the mug then you can either keep it or return it for a refund.

Cologne

After a wonderful morning, we departed for Cologne. I had signed up for the additional excursion, Cologne’s Beer Culture and Dinner. Our small group of 12 met up with our local guide and the first stop was an authentic German meal at Brauerei Zur Malzmühle – a 160-year old Family owned brauhaus.

Cologne is the home of Kolsch beer – luckily for me, since I am not a beer drinker but I do like Kolsch. Kolsch is served in small, thin glasses (6.8 US fl oz) and essentially bottomless. Servers continually bring around trays of beer and replace your empties until you place a coaster over the top.

Between the beer and the food – which was a fixed menu full of regional specialties – our group was off to a very upbeat start.

After dinner, we walked to one of the 3 large Christmas Markets. It was incredible – THIS is what I was envisioning. Bustling, festive crowds, stalls, music, lights….the sights, sounds and smells were everything you imagine.

We got gluhwein and wandered a bit before arriving at our second brauhaus. We sat outside at this one, under the heat lamps. Soon we continued on to a third and fourth pub. These bars were full of locals and tourists, after work get togethers and people boisterously kicking off the holiday season!

A few thoughts

Cologne was incredible, but here are a few thoughts. I wish we would have had longer at this stop. The Beer tour was so much fun and it was the first chance I had to get to know other people on the cruise however, I think I would have rather spent my time at the Christmas market. Additionally, Cologne’s crown jewel is their Cologne Cathedral and we did not get to visit because 1) it was evening when we arrived and it was closed; 2) Beer.

---

---

---

Day 4 – Koblenz, Middle Rhine and Rudesheim, Germany

The Middle Rhine

After a quick visit into Koblenz, the main focus of the day would be our journey through the Middle Rhine. This section of the Rhine is its most picturesque and a UNESCO World Heritage site. The landscape is beautiful and lined with vineyards, darling towns and castles. And we had a beautiful clear (although COLD) day to sit on the ship’s deck and view the 20+ castles.

---

---

---

---

Viking provided blankets and patio heaters, served gluhwein and spiked coffees while narrating the incredible sights. It was, without a doubt, one of my favorite afternoons of the trip.

Rudesheim

We opted to do the additional excursion “Dine in Rudesheim”. After taking the Christmas train into town, we spent some time enjoying the Rudesheim Christmas Market before meeting up with our ~25 shipmates for dinner.

The local restaurant served a pre-planned menu and lots of local wine. There was a four-piece band that played such German classics as My Way, Sweet Caroline and Margaritaville before bringing up volunteers for Edelweiss and finishing with everyone doing YMCA.

It was a fun and memorable night!

---

---

Day 5 – Mannheim and Speyer, Germany

We decided to make Day 5 a rest day. After not sleeping well, and still fighting a cold, it was much needed. We spent the day reading and relaxing. Based on reports from our fellow travelers, if we were to sit out a day, this was probably the one.

Day 6 – Strasbourg, France

Strasbourg was one of my two most anticipated stops. The Alsace region in France borders both Germany and Switzerland – it has a fascinating history and is the most idyllic town, designated as the Capital of Christmas. Its Christkindelsmärik is the oldest in France, founded in 1570.

Our local guide took us by bus from the port into town. The history of the Alsace region is fascinating – essentially a tug-o-war for its control between France and Germany from the Thirty Year War (in the 1600’s) through World War II, where it has remained under French control since 1945.

After our walking tour, we were free to explore for the rest of the day. This was opening day of the Strasbourg Christmas Market (which see 2 million visitors each season) so the crowds and excitement were building throughout the early afternoon.

Strasbourg was beautifully decorated at every turn. It was truly an extraordinary day. I could go on and on, but I think I will leave it to the pictures.

My one, teeny, negative was that we had to be back on board by 5:00 so we were not able to stay long enough to see the lights come on. And there was a street lined with Bacarat chandeliers that I was dying to see.

---

---

---

---

---

---

---

---

---

Day 7 – Breisach, Germany (But really…Colmar and Riquewihr)

Our last full day on board was based in Breisach, Germany. BUT…I was booked on my most eagerly awaited excursion – a full day tour to Colmar and Riquewihr. These picturesque towns in the Alsace region are just dreamy with their preserved old towns, the architecture and cobblestone streets.

Colmar

After a short, historical walking tour, we wandered the town. The people were so friendly and the crowds were joyful. It was a a fully immersive holiday experience.

---

---

---

Riquewihr

Riquewihr (pronounced Reek-weer) is best known as being the inspiration for Belle’s village in Beauty and the Beast. Needless to say, I was dying to see it.

Riquewihr did not disappoint. But it was packed and overwhelming and amazing, all at the same time. It is not a Christmas Market – the whole walled, old town is transformed. So crowded that I could not do my planned rendition of Belle, “Little town, it’s a quiet village. Every day like the one before” while dancing down the road.

This day made my entire trip. In a word, magical.

---

---

---

Day 8 – Basel, Switzerland

We docked sometime overnight and woke up in Basel, Switzerland. Mom and I had planned to stay an additional night and enjoy this city. The ship arranged a car to take us to our hotel where we dropped our things and headed out. We took a city tour via boat (like we hadn’t spent enough time on a boat for the last 8 days!), ate and stopped at one of the Christmas markets, Advantsgass, before turning in for an early night.

---

---

Final Thoughts on the Viking Christmas on the Rhine

• A Viking Cruise is absolutely worth doing
• This was a fantastic way to see the Christmas Markets and these lovely towns
• Book excursions early – some of the additional ones book up fast
• Attend the evening Cruise Talks to keep up with schedules and plans for the next day
• In the dining room, when you find the wait staff that you like, sit in that section for every meal – they don’t change sections. They really do get to know you and go above and beyond.
• If you see something you like at a Christmas Market, buy it! Very few things are found in multiple places
• The Christmas Markets tend to be more food and drink than gifts. So enjoy! German pretzels are not to be missed.

Other posts from Europe

• London
• Edinburgh
• Dublin
• Northern Ireland

Dublin has always been a dream. However, in doing my research, not everyone is keen on the Dublin experience. Of course you hear this about many capital cities; Paris, London and Rome come to mind. Many travel bloggers turn up their noses and prefer to head out to other destinations around Ireland. Others love this city. I needed to find out for myself.

Arriving in Dublin

I arrived in Dublin via train after an exhilarating but exhausting day exploring Belfast. I had planned to grab a taxi to the hotel, Aloft Dublin City in the Liberties. But when I arrived, the weather was gorgeous (as it had been the past 3 days) and it was only about 1.5 miles, so I thought I’d walk.

Since I had never been to Dublin, this was my first introduction and I have to say, it was love at first sight. As soon as I turned along the River Liffey, I was completely enchanted. The bridges, the people, and all the sights and sounds. My walk along the river took me past museums, City Hall, Temple Bar, cathedrals and schools. And the sun was starting to get lower in the sky beyond the river – it made the best possible first impression!

---

---

---

---

---

---

Accommodations

The hotel was lovely, very modern and all the amenities you expect from this brand. I planned on an early night after grabbing a drink in the rooftop bar and putting my newly acquired Irish Whiskey knowledge to use.

Hop On Hop Off Tour

We always recommend Hop On Hop Off buses as a means of both tourism and transportation when arriving in a new city. Dublin was no exception; the buses stop near each of the main points of interest and provide some narrative and great sights along the way. Luckily there was a stop around the corner from Aloft so it was convenient as well.

I had a lot of sightseeing to do in 2 days and had bookended the first day with The Jameson Distillery tour in the morning and The Guinness Storehouse tour in the afternoon, leaving plenty of time to tour the city in between.

Jameson Whiskey – Bow St. Experience

We arrived for the first tour of the morning at this legendary facility. Jameson Distillery Bow Street is located on the original site where Jameson was established in 1780. Their world-famous whiskey was produced here until 1971. After that time, the distilling operations moved to New Midleton Distillery in County Cork.

The tour is 40 minutes and includes a comparative tasting and a drink coupon to enjoy a signature cocktail either before or after in the beautifully decorated tasting facilities and bar. I also purchased the additional “Secret Whiskey Tasting”, a private barrel tasting that follows the guided tour. Be sure to make reservations in advance, several people tried to walk in, but tours were fully booked for days out.

Our tour guide was awesome. She was so much fun, so knowledgeable and really kept the tour group engaged. The history of the Jameson Family and whiskey production in Ireland was fascinating. I have been on a couple dozen Bourbon tours in Kentucky and while the production is similar, the history just really set this apart.

The private barrel tasting was a great addition. It was a small group event, hosted by two of the brand ambassadors. We tasted whiskey straight from the barrel in their small barrel room. Although Jameson Bow Street is not the main production facility, they do distill a very small quantity of two special whiskeys only available at this location. This tasting felt very special, but then again I’m a sucker for anything that feels exclusive (here, take my money)!

More Dublin Landmarks

We got back on the bus with a little whiskey buzz and an impossibly beautiful sunny day, for some drive-by sightseeing. Maybe it’s the whiskey talking, but there is something so enjoyable about the open top buses in the sunshine. I love the narration from the drivers. Each one is different and provides the opportunity to learn something new.

We stopped for lunch in the Temple Bar area, which was just so lively and fun. People watching provided great entertainment.

Guinness Storehouse Tour

Another must-do touristy stop is the Guinness Storehouse tour. This also requires advance planning and reservations although the sheer number of people was pretty surprising for the Covid times.

The tour is self-guided and is visually riveting; seven floors of waterfalls, neon lights and larger-than-life displays. The tour culminates in the Gravity Bar with a pint of Guinness. The Gravity Bar provides panoramic views of Dublin and the surrounding mountains and bay. The view from here was pretty incredible and definitely the highlight of the tour.

---

---

---

---

---

---

---

---

---

Dublin Day 2

Trinity College

Day 2 was my most anticipated point of interest, Trinity College. More specifically, The Old Library and The Book of Kells. The Book of Kells is an illuminated manuscript, created ~800 AD, and containing the four Gospels of the New Testament. The flourishes and ornate illustrations are beyond incredible (such an understatement).

The Book of Kells

The visit begins with the exhibition detailing the history, the artistry and the symbolism to be found in the illustrations and writings.

When you are ready to move into the Treasury to see The Book of Kells, you will be allowed into the darkened room in small groups to view what is considered to be Ireland’s Greatest Cultural Treasure. There is no photography allowed and you are given only a few moments to look at this magnificent manuscript. Although the actual visit is brief, the significance is almost overwhelming.

The Long Room

From the Treasury, make your way into the Long Room, the famed library, one of the most photographed and most beautiful in the world. The first look took my breath away, a symmetrical alley of over 250,000 of Ireland’s most ancient texts.

The room itself is remarkable, almost 65 meters long (that’s 213 feet!) and two stories high with a barreled ceiling. The books are in alcoves and mostly reachable only by sliding ladder. There is almost an optical illusion effect, and it is not readily obvious how one would even get between the alcoves on the second level. The room also contains marble busts of famous (and not so famous) authors and philosophers as well as Ireland’s oldest Gaelic harp.

---

---

A Little More Sightseeing

The area around Trinity College and the bus route back to the hotel was filled with ivy covered buildings, statues, architectural feasts. I headed back to the hotel to get ready for dinner. Although there were plenty of highly recommended restaurants in Dublin, I was set on going to Howth for some seaside relaxation and fresh seafood.

---

---

---

---

Howth

In my research for this trip, I read a blog that recommended getting out of the city to this fishing village and specifically, Octopussy’s Seafood Tapas. The drive was about 40 minutes from Dublin City out to this little peninsular oasis. The pier is lined with casual seafood restaurants with outdoor seating, leading to a viewpoint of the harbour, the Howth Lighthouse, and Ireland’s Eye (a small island bird sanctuary).

This was by far my favorite meal of the trip. We ordered a bottle of wine and so much food! The service was super friendly. I love tapas restaurants because each dish comes out when it is ready and not all at once.

---

---

---

---

---

---

Back to the City

Sadly, it was time to go back to the city and pack up for my early morning departure. Of course, there was still time for a few last whiskey drinks at the hotel’s rooftop bar and some final views of this beautiful city!

You might also like:
The Cliffs of Moher and Galway

The Best of Northern Ireland – Giant’s Causeway and Belfast

I had no idea what to expect from Northern Ireland; people LOVE Belfast, but I did not do any research.  Well, aside from chatting with my favorite bartender, Neil, at Elway’s in Denver International Airport.  He is from Belfast and gave me a couple of pointers.  However, before I get to Belfast, there is a must-see destination to visit first:  Giant’s Causeway.

Northern Ireland and Giant’s Causeway

For those that haven’t heard of it, The Giant’s Causeway is a dramatic natural wonder that is known for its 40,000 interlocking basalt columns that step up and down along the coastline. It is Northern Ireland’s only UNESCO World Heritage Site and is consistently on lists of the world’s most beautiful places. And it is also the stuff of legends.

Legend says that the Irish Giant, Finn McCool, challenged to a fight by Scottish Giant Benandonner, built the columnar bridge across the North Channel so that they could meet.  Another version tells that Finn McCool fell in love with a Scottish maiden and built the bridge to go see her.  In reality, the hexagonal columns were formed by volcanic fissure eruption. 

I struggled a bit in my research of the Causeway. There were definitely mixed reviews from fellow travelers who had visited.  I was questioning myself, would it be worth it?

Getting from Galway to Northern Ireland

The drive north from Galway toward Bushmills, Northern Ireland is about 5 hours.  Although this is a long drive, being from the western US, a five-hour drive is not that big of a trip.  The drive was pretty with portions along the water; there were lots of small towns, green hills, and farmland. Alas, still no sheep traffic jam (as I had wished for in the previous post).

Lunch was a quick stop at Benny & Co Coffee Bar in Ballybofey.  We were so lucky to have stumbled on this place.  The food was delicious, clearly a favorite with the locals as it was packed with a line forming.

The demarcation between Ireland and Northern Ireland is non-existent.  There are no border signs (unless I missed it), no passport control or immigration checkpoints.  Suddenly street signs are in “miles per hour” rather than “kilometers per hour”; that’s it.

Bushmills

The Giant’s Causeway is in the town of Bushmills.  Yes, that Bushmills, home of Bushmills Irish Whiskey.  Unfortunately, the old distillery was closed to tours during my visit but I grabbed a quick outside-the-gate picture.

Parking at the Giant’s Causeway Visitors Center was for those with paid admission only.  Self-guided walks among the stones are free but the Visitor Center charges a fee and offers guided tours.  We parked at the lot for Giant’s Causeway and Bushmills Railway.  The railway offers a twenty-minute, two-mile train ride between Bushmills Village and the Causeway, along the coastline.  I would have loved to do this, but the last train was at 2:30 and we had missed it.

Giant’s Causeway

The day was beautifully sunny and breezy enough to be cool but perfect!  There are a few trails to choose from but the most direct is the Blue Trail. The trail runs about 0.8 miles roundtrip from the Visitor Center; all downhill going to the Giant’s Boot and all UPHILL coming back!

Without hesitation I can tell you this was 100% worth it.  Why had I even doubted it?  This place was spectacular!

I felt like a kid on playground. I climbed up and down on the different levels of steppingstone.  The hexagonal columns were incredible up close. It is mind-blowing to think these formations are naturally occurring. The landscape of the surrounding bluffs was beautiful. There were tide pools, rock formations and of course the ocean views. I saw penguins; or at least I am saying they were penguins. Which of course makes no sense, but I am almost sure.

The Dark Hedges

Since the distillery was closed, there was one more stop on the way to Belfast, The Dark Hedges.  Interestingly enough, this was also on the list of most beautiful places in the world.  Dark Hedges is an avenue of roughly 150 Beech trees that form a tunnel.  The claim to fame is that this was used as a filming location for “King’s Road” in the Game of Thrones.  It was pretty cool, but definitely a quick stop.

Belfast

The Merchant Hotel

From there, Belfast was a pretty short drive.  My first impressions of Belfast were very positive.  The city had beautiful architecture, and lively cafes and bars.  My accommodations were a bit of a splurge, The Merchant Hotel.  This 5-star hotel was LUXURY!!  Every detail was lavish, ornate and impeccable.

My only regret is that it was already late evening, and I was too exhausted to fully enjoy all that The Merchant had to offer.  Let’s not forget that I had only arrived from the US the morning before!  Also, after a full day car ride and hiking rocks at the Causeway, I was not looking worthy of this elegance.

The Victorian style room was very elegant and overlooked a fun-looking alley lined with bars, restaurants, and street art.

My priority was food!  Luckily, the front desk directed me to the bar which was open and didn’t require reservations.  When I say bar, it is called the Great Room – it is grand, ornate, and glamourous!  I felt like Queen Latifa in the Last Holiday, a little out of place, a little overwhelmed and wanting to ask anyone, “Don’t that ceiling ever just make you want to cry?”

The food and cocktail menus were fantastic.  With all of the choices on the menu, having fish and chips felt a bit basic but it was what the server recommended.  Bougie fish and chips and a couple of unique cocktails made for a perfect evening, as did the service.  Truly top notch.

I would have loved to explore the hotel and surrounding area, but it was bed time.  Tomorrow would again be packed with a full day of solo exploring before taking the train back to Dublin.

Exploring Belfast

I woke up with plans to wander around Cathedral Quarter, see the sights and go to Titanic Belfast.  After another impressive Merchant Hotel experience, coffee service with scones in the Cocktail Bar, and some guidance from the doorman, I was off.

I truly enjoyed my aimless walking along the mostly empty streets, admiring the cathedrals, the art, and architecture. 

Harbour Marina

My tour took me across the bridge over the River Lagan and into Belfast Harbour Marina.  The Marina is where the crowds were!  There was so much to see and just people watch. 

---

---

Titanic Belfast

Titanic Belfast was the ultimate attraction here.  The museum is a modern, glistening building that is set on the very location that the Titanic was designed, built, and launched.   I was able to get right into the self-guided tour.  The sheer size of the exhibit is impressive with nine galleries of immersive sights and sounds. The exhibits and story-telling depict life in Belfast, the revolutionary design & construction of the ship (including a Shipyard ride), the Launch, the Sinking and the aftermath.  It was such a great attraction and well worth the visit.

Overall, I was so grateful to have taken this side trip!  The Giant’s Causeway was spectacular, and Belfast was lovely, exceeding my non-existent expectations!  I really would love to go back, spend more time at the Merchant (duh!) and see more of this capital city.  But, it was time to catch a taxi (not easy to find) to the train station and head for Dublin.