Athens – More Than a Stepping Stone to the Greek Islands
Athens is the entry point to Greece for most travelers, but after this trip, I will tell you…it should be more than a stepping off point. Athens was a wonderful city. So much history, architecture, art and food!!
You remember my travel buddy, Kelli, from our Epic Utah Road trip? Well, we are back with a much grander trip. This time, Greece! We started off in Athens for a short stop before setting sail (or ferry, as the case may be) to Mykonos, Paros and Santorini.
Athens
Kelli and I are both planners and this always works out so well. You know how you hear about friends where one is always planning and the other just shows up and goes with the flow? We both research and seek out the best of things to see & do, but at the same time, we are both happy to go along with the other’s choice. It is such a blessing!
We would be in Athens for 2 nights and had only prebooked dinner on the first night and a food tour on the one full day – the only other obligatory sight was the Parthenon (duh!).
After taking a taxi from the airport, we arrived at our beautiful hotel, The Electra Palace. The smallest glitch, we had not confirmed with the taxi driver that he took credit cards. So, we arrived at the hotel and needed cash. The driver was so sweet and told us that although there were no ATMs in the immediate area, the hotel would loan us the cash. So I ran in, explained the situation and they gladly gave me the €35 with a promise to return it in cash when I had the opportunity. It was the first time that’s happened and just a small glimpse of the Greek hospitality that we would experience over the next 9 days.
Our hotel was ideally located in the Plaka neighborhood – a touristy shopping district at the foot of the Parthenon. The hotel was beautiful but the rooftop view of the Acropolis…STUNNING.
Sidenote: The Acropolis of Athens is the entire hilltop area – Acropolis meaning “highest point, extremity”. The Parthenon is the most famous of the architectural ruins that remains on the Acropolis. The Parthenon was a temple dedicated to the goddess Athena.
The Plaka
That first day was spent wandering around Plaka. Since it was late September, the crowds were fairly light. It is the perfect neighborhood for shopping, strolling, and getting acclimated to the area. There are no wrong turns here, explore alleys, squares and the staired-stepped streets lined with cafes.
The walk to dinner was just under a kilometer but we took a quick detour to stop by the oldest distillery in Athens, Brettos. Brettos is in the Plaka and is a must do – you will be immediately drawn into this lively bar. The walls are lined with colorful bottles of liqueurs, brandy, ouzo and other house made spirits. The drink menu is extensive and delicious.
After a pre-dinner drink, we continued our walk out of Plaka into the City Center.
Dinner With a View
As I mentioned earlier, we had dinner reservations for that evening. NYX Rooftop came highly recommended for both views and food. NYX is a Japanese Fusion restaurant – it felt criminal not to have Greek food on that first night, but we soon got over it.
The restaurant is located in the Academias Hotel, an Autograph Collection by Marriott. The hotel was really stylish and the lobby bar was inviting but we were headed up to the top.
Now, I know, I am a bit dramatic when it comes to views, but I literally got teary as we exited the elevator and were walked to our patio table. I know the staff thought we were crazy, but we were in awe. The view truly takes your breath away.
Just look…
Sure, we had seen the Acropolis and the Parthenon throughout the day, but that doesn’t prepare you for this perspective. Then add to that, getting to see the sun set beyond the gulf was an incredible experience. Not to be slighted, the food was delicious, and the service was wonderful.
Back to our own Rooftop bar
We walked back to our hotel, happy but exhausted (let’s not forget we had just arrived that morning!).
But first, we had to check out our hotel’s rooftop lounge. Although the night was chilly, we sat outside to enjoy a nightcap and the spectacular Parthenon.
Athens Day 2
Athens Day 2 was an early one. We wanted to walk up to the Acropolis before the crowds. It happened to be a holiday in Greece where admission was free so we knew it would be crowded.
The Acropolis – Hike Up
The climb up the hill was not easy but was not as difficult as I feared and only one wrong turn. Always prepare for the worst! It was early so the day wasn’t as hot as it would get – I can’t imagine doing this in August, yikes!
There are some great sights along the walk including the Theater of Dionysus.
The Acropolis – At the Top
We got to the top and there was already a line although it wasn’t long – the gates didn’t open until 9:00 so there was a bit of a wait.
At the top there is a small souvenir shop and a coffee stand (although you can’t take the coffee in with you). There are also local guides walking around and offering their services.
The Parthenon and surrounding ruins are pretty amazing. The age of these structures, and the size and detail of the carvings are unbelievable. It might be weird, but I just wanted to touch the marble (and it is definitely prohibited!). Aside from the Parthenon, my favorites were the Temple of Athena Nike and Erechtheion.
Be sure to check out the Acropolis Museum as well. We did not have time, but everyone we spoke to raved about it.
Athens Food Tour
We had booked the Gourmet Food Walking Tour of Athens. I always love a food tour – it is such a great way to taste a variety of local specialties plus you get stories and history from the guides that you wouldn’t get on your own.
We met our guide and tour mates at Monastriaki Square. Monastriaki Square is very large, there are 2 churches, cafes, shopping and an open space where people gather.
Our first stop was Bougatsadiko Psirri for pastries. We sampled several varieties of Bougatsa – phyllo based sweet and/or savory pastry, think spanakopita & similar – all really good. But watching the bakers make these was fascinating!
We walked through this alley on our way….Little Kook cafe decorates for each season. So cool! I should also mention that graffiti is EVERYWHERE in Athens. Every building, every surface.
The second stop was Mokka for authentic Greek coffee! I previously thought this was Turkish coffee, but the Greeks also prepare coffee this way. The rich coffee is mixed with sugar and water then heated in a briki over hot sand until it foams up. You order it sweet, a little sweet or not sweet. Once the coffee is poured from the briki into your cup, you let it sit for a few minutes so the grounds settle before drinking it. (I had an unenjoyable experience by not being told that earlier in the day)
The third stop Central Athens Varvakios Market – we walked through the fish market and the meat market before stopping to sample some produce, nuts and olives.
Fourth stop was Krinos for the sweet Loukoumades – Greek donuts served with honey & cinnamon syrup or chocolate. These were delicious, very traditional but one was more than enough! So sweet!
Our next stop was a lot of food! Our guide took us to a meze restaurant. We tasted ouzo (nope!) and ate traditional meze plates – appetizer or tapas like plates of food.
Can you believe how much food was on this tour?? And we aren’t even done!
Next up was a wine and vinegar tasting with small bites. The wine was all delicious, the vinegar was amazing, and we are still talking about the Greek salad skewers. Yum!
Our final, and favorite stop of the day…Gyros!! I was waiting for this one and it did not disappoint. Savvas served up amazing Gyros with fries. I don’t know how we managed to eat another bite, but they were so good we had to!
Back to the Hotel
We took the long way back to the hotel to try to walk off some of that food! It was a great day and could only be made better by a final evening on the rooftop patio, watching the sun set alongside the Acropolis.
We had a very early ferry to Mykonos the next morning, so stay tuned!
More Adventures in Greece:
24 Comments
Steven Jepson
I felt that same awe every time I saw the Acropolis. And isn’t that one of the great things about central Athens. Everywhere you are, look up! There it is! And a different perspective everytime. What a great city!
Big Sister
It absolutely stops you in your tracks. You two are so lucky to have had an extended stay! I’d love to go back and experience more.
Tamshuk
Wow, that was really sweet of the hotel to loan you the cash. This is wonderful hospitality and quite rare..
The views of the Acropolis look so good. The ruins of Pantheon is definitely something I wanna see for myself.
Such a detailed post this and very informative
Big Sister
It was so nice – the hotel was fantastic! I appreciate your comment, thank you!
Ryan Biddulph
Awesome post guys, just awesome. We visited Athens last month before traveling to Crete. Loved it. So much to do, see and enjoy.
Ryan
Big Sister
Thank you for your comment! I was so surprised at how much I enjoyed Athens, I’ll definitely be going back – maybe to Crete?
Ryan Biddulph
Go for it! Crete was fabulous. Quiet, peaceful and the food? Off the charts tasty.
Lyn (aka Jazz)
What a treat to read this. It brought back such great memories of my visits. That food tour looks amazing — I definitely want to do that on my next visit. Last time I took a cooking class which was fabulous but that tour looks even better!
I love Greek gyros, they never taste nearly as good here at home.
Big Sister
Gyros are so much better in Greece! I was so surprised! I loved the food tour but I think a cooking class would be amazing! Thanks so much for your comment!
Carolin
I’m glad to read you gave Athens a chance and stayed for a few more days. It has a bit of a rough reputation (drugs, the graffiti you noticed it everywhere) and the touristic area is quite small in comparison to other European capital cities. I found that Athens, especially the archeological sites had a lot to offer though and kept you busy for a good 2-3 days. The rooftops of Athens are an absolute must and I’m happy to see you found a good one at your hotel. Excellent choice.
Carolin | Solo Travel Story
Big Sister
Thank you so much for reading! I can see that it is a little rough outside of the tourist areas, but we definitely enjoyed the areas that we saw.
Mitch
A food tour! In Athens! That looked absolutely brilliant. Like you, we love a food tour as it’s a great way of learning about the local specialties – and then scoffing them. The meze and gyros in particular looked divine. And you had worked up an appetite with the Acropolis hike! Interesting that there were plenty of places to see on the walk. The Theatre of Dionysus looked lovely. We’ve not visited Athens but would very much like to see the Parthenon, the architecture looks like amazing and we’d be fascinated to learn about the history. And eat all the food. Another place we need to add to the ever-expanding list…
Big Sister
The food tour was fantastic! It is surprising at how good the gyros are, I should have eaten more of them! I hope you visit someday, there is a lot to see, do & eat!
Barry
The photos here are stunning, so crisp and clear and creative. I’d never have thought of a food tour through Athens but it was clearly something I should have done when I was there a few years ago. The roof-top bar of the hotel alone would have sold the hotel to me.
I loved the ancient monuments sctattered throughout the city and it’s weird to see modern buildings erected next to old ruins – but its a living city and thus cannot be one huge archeological site, despite its attempts to be just that.
Am surprised that you took a taxi from the airport when the Metro is much cheaper and faster.
Am glad that you noticed the grafitti too. It was the one element that took the edge of things for me. At times, in some areas ,I felt I was in a New York Boro’ from the 1970’s with amountof it – as you said “every building, every surface”. Such a lack of civic pride that no-one ever attempts to remove it, even on private buildings.
The Plaka was exquisite, like a village atmosphere and we dined in that area several times, due to the plethora of quaint and attractive eateries.
Big Sister
Thank you so much for your comment – you have great insight. I completely agree with you and fell in love with the Plaka.
Wandering kellers
We are set to bareboat charter in the Saronic Gulf in a few months leaving out of Athens so this post is so apropos and answered so many questions we had been contemplating. Great photos and it’s always sad to see so much graffiti over so much history. I can’t wait to taste the food and that hike seemed well worth the view. Those donuts looked delicious and I’m sure my wife will have many of them. Did most people speak some English? I’m learning some Greek just in case on the smaller islands we run into issues. Informative and enjoyable read as always.
Big Sister
I’m excited for you, that will be an amazing trip! Everyone spoke English – probably the most of any non-English country I’ve visited (although we visited very touristy areas). The most important word we learned was Yamas (Cheers!).
Jan
Athens is one of the places I keep telling myself to go to and not able to. This post makes me dream of the city in all its forms and glory – sights, scenes, statues and who knows, meeting real life Greek gods in speedos 😉 Thanks for sharing sistahs! #flyingbaguette
Jan of https://flyingbaguette.com/
Flavia
Wow! I have yet to go to Greece and I knew I’d stop at least a day or two in Athens but this has inspired me to stay for at last 2-3 days. So much to see, do, and most importantly, eat! The Greek coffee also looks delish and now very high on my list for when I’m there.
Big Sister
I hope you will enjoy Athens as much as we did. And oh, the food! So good!
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Stefan Hacker
How nice you found another travel buddy. Who would’ve guessed that a Japanese fusion restaurant would be such a fabulous choice (well, you did, I realise haha)!? That eel sushi looks out of this world, and so do the views from the roof top. That food tour seems a great find, too. I know Ellie would die for those Loukoumades and I am sure I’d enjoy the mezze. Wine and vinegar tasting made me chuckle. Here in the UK all wine tasting basically comes down to vinegar tasting kind of… 🙂
Tiffany Pence
That was a lot of food on the food tour! And it looked so good! Will you go back to Athens and stay longer next time?