The Best of Northern Ireland – Giant’s Causeway and Belfast

After a bucket list kind of day at the Cliffs of Moher and Galway, it was an early morning start for a trip to Northern Ireland.

I had no idea what to expect from Northern Ireland; people LOVE Belfast, but I did not do any research.  Well, aside from chatting with my favorite bartender, Neil, at Elway’s in Denver International Airport.  He is from Belfast and gave me a couple of pointers.  However, before I get to Belfast, there is a must-see destination to visit first:  Giant’s Causeway.

Northern Ireland and Giant’s Causeway

For those that haven’t heard of it, The Giant’s Causeway is a dramatic natural wonder that is known for its 40,000 interlocking basalt columns that step up and down along the coastline. It is Northern Ireland’s only UNESCO World Heritage Site and is consistently on lists of the world’s most beautiful places. And it is also the stuff of legends.

Legend says that the Irish Giant, Finn McCool, challenged to a fight by Scottish Giant Benandonner, built the columnar bridge across the North Channel so that they could meet.  Another version tells that Finn McCool fell in love with a Scottish maiden and built the bridge to go see her.  In reality, the hexagonal columns were formed by volcanic fissure eruption. 

I struggled a bit in my research of the Causeway. There were definitely mixed reviews from fellow travelers who had visited.  I was questioning myself, would it be worth it?

Getting from Galway to Northern Ireland

The drive north from Galway toward Bushmills, Northern Ireland is about 5 hours.  Although this is a long drive, being from the western US, a five-hour drive is not that big of a trip.  The drive was pretty with portions along the water; there were lots of small towns, green hills, and farmland. Alas, still no sheep traffic jam (as I had wished for in the previous post).

Lunch was a quick stop at Benny & Co Coffee Bar in Ballybofey.  We were so lucky to have stumbled on this place.  The food was delicious, clearly a favorite with the locals as it was packed with a line forming.

The demarcation between Ireland and Northern Ireland is non-existent.  There are no border signs (unless I missed it), no passport control or immigration checkpoints.  Suddenly street signs are in “miles per hour” rather than “kilometers per hour”; that’s it.

Bushmills

The Giant’s Causeway is in the town of Bushmills.  Yes, that Bushmills, home of Bushmills Irish Whiskey.  Unfortunately, the old distillery was closed to tours during my visit but I grabbed a quick outside-the-gate picture.

Parking at the Giant’s Causeway Visitors Center was for those with paid admission only.  Self-guided walks among the stones are free but the Visitor Center charges a fee and offers guided tours.  We parked at the lot for Giant’s Causeway and Bushmills Railway.  The railway offers a twenty-minute, two-mile train ride between Bushmills Village and the Causeway, along the coastline.  I would have loved to do this, but the last train was at 2:30 and we had missed it.

Giant’s Causeway

The day was beautifully sunny and breezy enough to be cool but perfect!  There are a few trails to choose from but the most direct is the Blue Trail. The trail runs about 0.8 miles roundtrip from the Visitor Center; all downhill going to the Giant’s Boot and all UPHILL coming back!

Without hesitation I can tell you this was 100% worth it.  Why had I even doubted it?  This place was spectacular!

I felt like a kid on playground. I climbed up and down on the different levels of steppingstone.  The hexagonal columns were incredible up close. It is mind-blowing to think these formations are naturally occurring. The landscape of the surrounding bluffs was beautiful. There were tide pools, rock formations and of course the ocean views. I saw penguins; or at least I am saying they were penguins. Which of course makes no sense, but I am almost sure.

The Dark Hedges

Since the distillery was closed, there was one more stop on the way to Belfast, The Dark Hedges.  Interestingly enough, this was also on the list of most beautiful places in the world.  Dark Hedges is an avenue of roughly 150 Beech trees that form a tunnel.  The claim to fame is that this was used as a filming location for “King’s Road” in the Game of Thrones.  It was pretty cool, but definitely a quick stop.

Belfast

The Merchant Hotel

From there, Belfast was a pretty short drive.  My first impressions of Belfast were very positive.  The city had beautiful architecture, and lively cafes and bars.  My accommodations were a bit of a splurge, The Merchant Hotel.  This 5-star hotel was LUXURY!!  Every detail was lavish, ornate and impeccable.

My only regret is that it was already late evening, and I was too exhausted to fully enjoy all that The Merchant had to offer.  Let’s not forget that I had only arrived from the US the morning before!  Also, after a full day car ride and hiking rocks at the Causeway, I was not looking worthy of this elegance.

The Victorian style room was very elegant and overlooked a fun-looking alley lined with bars, restaurants, and street art.

My priority was food!  Luckily, the front desk directed me to the bar which was open and didn’t require reservations.  When I say bar, it is called the Great Room – it is grand, ornate, and glamourous!  I felt like Queen Latifa in the Last Holiday, a little out of place, a little overwhelmed and wanting to ask anyone, “Don’t that ceiling ever just make you want to cry?”

The food and cocktail menus were fantastic.  With all of the choices on the menu, having fish and chips felt a bit basic but it was what the server recommended.  Bougie fish and chips and a couple of unique cocktails made for a perfect evening, as did the service.  Truly top notch.

I would have loved to explore the hotel and surrounding area, but it was bed time.  Tomorrow would again be packed with a full day of solo exploring before taking the train back to Dublin.

Exploring Belfast

I woke up with plans to wander around Cathedral Quarter, see the sights and go to Titanic Belfast.  After another impressive Merchant Hotel experience, coffee service with scones in the Cocktail Bar, and some guidance from the doorman, I was off.

I truly enjoyed my aimless walking along the mostly empty streets, admiring the cathedrals, the art, and architecture. 

Harbour Marina

My tour took me across the bridge over the River Lagan and into Belfast Harbour Marina.  The Marina is where the crowds were!  There was so much to see and just people watch. 

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Titanic Belfast

Titanic Belfast was the ultimate attraction here.  The museum is a modern, glistening building that is set on the very location that the Titanic was designed, built, and launched.   I was able to get right into the self-guided tour.  The sheer size of the exhibit is impressive with nine galleries of immersive sights and sounds. The exhibits and story-telling depict life in Belfast, the revolutionary design & construction of the ship (including a Shipyard ride), the Launch, the Sinking and the aftermath.  It was such a great attraction and well worth the visit.

Overall, I was so grateful to have taken this side trip!  The Giant’s Causeway was spectacular, and Belfast was lovely, exceeding my non-existent expectations!  I really would love to go back, spend more time at the Merchant (duh!) and see more of this capital city.  But, it was time to catch a taxi (not easy to find) to the train station and head for Dublin.