Isla Holbox – The Yucatan’s Best Worst-kept Secret

Beach Bars, Golf Carts, and Flamingos. Isla Holbox is the perfect place for chill.

I don’t want to write this blog post.  We don’t want to tell you how amazing Isla Holbox is. We want to keep this place a hidden little secret tucked away just for us.  But you need to know.  Isla Holbox was amazing. 

Where we left you…

But first, just a little recap before the final installment of our Mexico series. This was my 50^th birthday trip, sister time, combined with sight seeing and adventure that was interrupted by corrupt Policia and a hurricane. Tulum, Valladolid, and Playa del Carmen have been explored. Pat and I are now supposed to go to Isla Mujeres for a few days of couples time. Peggy is off to Isla Holbox for some solo quiet time.  Except she has now sold me on the necessity of Isla Holbox.

Isla Holbox is a small island on the Northern Yucatan, accessible only by ferry. No cars on the island, only golf carts, sounds like a good place to chill for our last few days and recover from all our previous excitement.

Patti’s 50th Birthday!!

And my big day finally arrives!  My fiftieth birthday is here. Only, there was a hurricane in Playa del Carmen where we are staying. We have no power (still…40 hours later), and the ceiling is collapsing in the living room of our AirBnB. And we are just over it.  We are up, loading up the rental car to GTFO and on to better days.

But not before a little inconvenience

As we are ready to peace outta this, Pat hits the ignition and nothing happens, NOTHING. Oh, perfect, this is exactly what we should have expected.  The doors won’t unlock, the car won’t start, all our stuff is inside, and I feel a complete meltdown coming on

Queue phone call to Peggy’s Mexican Friend Oscar, who calls Michelle at the Playa location of National Car Rental, who has no other cars available to us. She can get us one from Cancun, it will just take 4 or 5 hours.

Sister Side Note (ssn) – the condo had allowed us to park the car in the “inside” lot before the hurricane, but since the spaces were all full, it was parked in some random self-made spot. And now it was stuck there. Oops. Michelle was the absolute loveliest person and tried so hard to make everything right. We figured out how to get our belongings out of the car and I was SOOOOOO relieved not to drive that I was secretly thankful. Haha.

But first, Breakfast

We head for La Perla Pixan for some breakfast chilaquiles and a mocha pulque to calm a birthday girl’s frazzled nerves and formulate a new plan. Ditch the rental car and call Ramon, our taxi driver from the day before (“mi esposo es drunk”).  Reasoning that although it is an hour and a half drive to the ferry, it is a confirmed fare for him for the day; we WhatsApp him and he replies “Absolutamente, senora, a que hora”.  We go check out of our AirBnb, hand over the keys and BOOM power comes on, like freaking stupid fate, or karma, or whatever current spiritual diety is out to get me these days.  Leave the car to be picked up later, and load up into Ramon’s taxi and we are outta there. 

Getting to Chiquila

Best decision of our trip.  Peggy is able to just kick back and relax, so less stressed. We have a new friend in Mexico who turns up the music when we want to sing and dance (I can still hear Bruno Mars in my head) and we can really enjoy the gorgeous countryside of the Yucatan without fear of a shakedown (AGAIN). 

ssn – the trip cost 2200 Pesos (roughly $100 at that time) and it was so worth it. We weren’t sure if this was standard but we didn’t care at this point. Having Ramon was priceless. BTW, I still keep in touch with him and have sent a couple of friends to him. He works from Playa and does trips to Chichen Itza, Coba, Tulum, etc.

Ferry from Chiquila to Isla Holbox

You board the ferry to Isla Holbox from Chiquila.  There are two different ferry companies, they alternate every half hour, only 200 Pesos, and takes about 30 minutes.  We choose Holbox Express, which turns out to be anything but express, feels like we are idling the entire way there.

But just relaxing sitting on the deck enjoying the ride trying not to punch the obnoxious Americans behind us (ugh, tourists, amiright?), and their kids that are overdue for a smacking.  But I’m on vacation, so I let it go.

ssn – the tequila from the previous day’s drunken adventure – straight from the bottle didn’t hurt.

Arriving in Holbox

Disembarking in Isla Holbox, it felt like an immediate release of tension, stress just melts away as you get in the taxi line and climb into a golf cart.  That’s right, no cars on the island, only golf carts.  You can rent one if you plan to be there for a while, but it’s a small town. Very walkable, and golf cart taxis were all we really needed.  Dirt roads, and colorful buildings greet our short drive to our hotel.

This is where we separate.  Pat and I have booked Hotel El Pueblito, a moderately priced hotel, about 4 blocks from the beach, but I was completely swayed by the colorful, authentic Mexican feel of the pictures on TripAdvisor.  Peggy headed in a second taxi to her beach front paradise, and winner of her Best Hotel of 2020 Award, Casa las Tortugas.

Patti & Pat – Hotel El Pueblito

Hotel El Pueblito sits on the main street just next to the town center. Knowing we would have just spent a week beach front, I was willing to forego the beachfront. Pictures online of El Pueblito were bright and colorful and I just fell in love with the vibe. As we are checking in, we have to sign into the required Covid contact tracing log. I notice that the last entry was two weeks prior to mine.  So I ask if we are the only ones in the hotel, he says yes, because of travel restrictions they haven’t had a single guest in two weeks. Total score, the place to ourselves.

Unfortunately, the pool was out of commission due to the recent hurricane, but that’s completely ok. We are only 4 blocks from the beach. Our room is perfect!  Absolutely perfect.

With a little patio overlooking the street, directly above Rosa Mexicano café, and directly across from a second story outdoor bar called La Bamba. Pretty much perfect for us!  I am happy, finally my birthday day is coming around for me.

ANOTHER slight inconvenience

It’s about this time we realize Pat’s backpack is nowhere to be found. It clearly did not make the journey to the island with us.  A quick text to Ramon confirms it’s not in his taxi. Apparently it was left in the previously loaded rental car. So, awesome, his passport is in his back pack, and so is his CPAP machine.  UGH. Ever sleep with someone who uses a CPAP when they don’t have their CPAP?  Snoresville is our new normal.

Rental Car Michelle texts Peggy that they will secure it and we can pick it up at the main center at the Cancun airport upon out return to reality.

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Meanwhile, Peggy is checking in to her little slice of heaven 4 blocks away.

Peggy – Hotel Casa las Tortugas

From the moment that the taxi dropped me off, I knew I was home. Casa las Tortugas is the dreamiest little hotel you can imagine. Diego greeted me and took me to the reception area while a porter took my bags to be sanitized then to my room.

Diego offered to arrange a Bioluminescent tour for us the next morning. We got so lucky!! It was the last morning the bioluminescence would be visible for that moon cycle. Then he showed me around the property and had me choose my beach cabana. Due to covid protocols, each room has a dedicated cabana that nobody else would use during your stay.

Casa las Tortugas has the most peaceful, serene vibe and is so stylishly decorated. Every corner has something to look at. In addition to Mandarina, the hotel has Luuma – one of the nicest restaurants on island; Agua wellness spa; and offers its guests sound healings every Sunday night. Also special New Moon & Full Moon ceremonies.

I got to my room, still in disbelief that I was staying here. After cleaning up a bit, I headed to my cabana to wait for Patti and Pat. Cue the fabulous drink service and my favorite drink, the PS Martini (to the rest of the world this is a Porn Star Martini but they keep it classy at Mandarina).

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Time to Explore

So, review what is on our Holbox agenda. . . Lobster pizza, tacos, and flamingos. . .but first:  BEACH BARS!!!  We walk to get Peggy, and her hotel is verified as a showstopper!  We decide to just stroll and find what suits us before sunset and just enjoy the wandering.

The three of us walk around town, with zero luck finding any of the rooftop bars open due to current restrictions. But the town itself is just adorable. Sidewalks and dirt roads, and businesses colorfully painted. A lot of street murals, and quaint little shops. The smell of the local restaurants immersed your senses with char grill, seafood, and summertime.

The town square really gives you a feel of a small, tight knit community, with a mini-amphitheater, a fenced soccer court, and playground. A little church right off the town square, and a newly installed hand washing station with a sign that read “Come Healthy, Leave Healthy” really played into the sense of community.

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Start at the Beach Bar

We end up back at the beach and selected this fantastic beach club bar, Amaite.  A little more upscale than we were looking for but perfect for sunset, as it has a small pier to walk out onto the water.  Cocktails and some of the craziest fresh fish ever. We went with beachy drinks and a shared appetizer, just to hold us over until we can go to a full birthday dinner after sunset.

And the sunset did not disappoint, even though we were facing North and not West.  Crank of the head to the left, and full sunset colors filled the sky.

Dinner

For dinner, Alberto, our host at Hotel El Pueblito, recommended Viva Zapata for more authentica Mexcian food.  We pass The Hot Corner, which is the one big touristy night club in town, make a note to rally up to stop there later.

Viva Zapata crushes our culinary world, as you walk in you can smell the open fires grilling away.  We end up in the back room, starting with some of the most amazing queso fundido!  Oooey, gooey, crazy melty cheesy goodness.  I follow up with a chipotle shrimp pasta, yes, I get that pasta is not necessarily Mexican, but it’s my birthday, so I do what I want.  And it’s chipotle, and crema, and shrimp!!!

Full, happy, exhausted, and thoughts of The Hot Corner thrown to the wind, we wrapped up day one in Isla Holbox, aka, my new home. 

Isla Holbox – Day 2

Early start for our Bioluminescent Tour

Day two arrives with a big groan from Pat, aka Senor Super Snorer. But a commitment to getting up at 4 am to experience the Bioluminescence is a big MUST DO item. Obvs, it can only be done in the pitch black of night.  And you know what they say, it’s always darkest before the dawn.

We climb into our four wheeler taxi and we head out.  For some reason we had it in our head that we had booked a boat ride out to the cove to view the bioluminescence, but apparently, no. We had booked a taxi ride, with our driver as the guide, to the darkest bay on the island.

And it is gorgeous out, not all the intrusive city lights, the sky is filled with stars, and a brilliant moon setting over the water.

We park among a dozen other carts on the far west side of the island near Playa Punta Cocos and are guided through the dark to the water. The guide tells us to take off our shoes and leave our bags on the shore. Pat is pretty much a hard no at this point to leaving our shit behind and walking into pitch black water. This surprises me because I’m perfectly willing to do this even though it seems like something my fear-filled pansy-ass should avoid.

The Bioluminescent Glow

One step into the water, second step, and I see a glow around Peggy’s calf, and I think my eyes are clearly messing with me in the dark. The water is cool, but not cold, and it’s all sand on my tootsies, and then I see the glow around my ankles, and then I see Pat trepidatiously walking in behind me as our guide starts lifting the water and letting the glow fall through her fingers.

So, our picture is from the internet, because you can’t actually photograph the glow with Go-pro or phone cameras, you need high powered professional equipment.

Basically the Bioluminescence are plankton in the water that react to oxygen.  When oxygen hits them they glow like little teeny tiny plankton size fireflies.  The water just lights up.  So when our guide splashes it’s a glowing, sparkly wave of water.  Our guide brought a white cloth that we all held corners of and “picked up” the water and let it fall – it was spectacular!!

Definitely a Worthy Experience

Definitely one of the coolest things I’ve seen in a science-y, nature, wildlife-y kind of way.  Take the time, make the effort, drag your butt out of bed and go do this!  And a quick tip when planning your vacation, choose a time with a new moon, so it’s darker out.  But honestly, even the drive along the water in the pitch black with the stars out was gorgeous and worth getting up for.

Sister Time

After a quick return to the hotels and a sunrise, Pat went back to bed and I went to Peggy’s hotel for sister time, beach front coffee, fruit and fresh baked morning pastries.  Mimosa are an obvious must, and the server hears about my love of dragonfruit and brings me a plate. Never Leaving.

Oh Captain, My Captain

We planned to visit a couple of galleries and shops but it was still early at this point so nothing was open. And not wanting to wake Pat, we walked back to the beach and immediately found Capitan Capitan. Which we pretty much claimed as our own for the duration of our stay.

Close your eyes and picture the perfect beach bar, that is it.  Amazing people, the bar is actually in an old fishing boat, and the bartender is happily pouring drinks and dancing a little to the music.  To the right, old fisherman about 20 feet away, feeding seagulls the remains of their catch of the day, and to the left, a big ole beach swing. 

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We let Pat know where to find us and just hung out. Perfect lazy day, with nothing to do now that we experienced the Bioluminescence.  We camped out in our beach bar sipping on whatever concoctions they gave us and watching the water and people selling their crafts on the beach.

At this point, we’ve moved in

I immediately need a mango flower off the mango cart. This gets lost in translation and I end up with a cup of mango, with tajin on it, and zero complaints from me.  Peggy and I both buy foot jewelry and straw beach bag style purses.

We are sure are just touristy factory-made bags, but super cute, and we are sure we have talked him down to a great price. And as the guy goes to get us change and a different color bag for Peggy, our new best friend and Capitan server Marco tells us that this guy is actually selling them for his momma who makes and weaves them herself.  So, now we feel bad for bartering with the guy, because IT’S HIS MOMMA.  And we tip him extra, cuz momma.  And they are super cute!

Pat wanders down, only getting slightly lost, but luckily it’s a small town, not much to get lost in. Go to the beach, find us.

ssn – Pat managed to find the only working ATM on the island. Unlike the majority of tourist cities on the Yucatan Peninsula, most Holbox businesses do not take credit cards and there are only a few ATMs. Those ATMs are subject to running out of cash or being down due to communications or rain storms. It’s best to go with plenty of pesos.

Lobster Pizza and Tacos

Isla Holbox is pretty well-known for their lobster pizza, and it’s said you must try it. And we would never pass up 1) Lobster, or 2) Anything listed as a “must”.  The original lobster pizza is at Pizzaria Edelyn right on the corner of the town square.  However, we are given insider information by another traveler that Roots Pizza is actually better.  So, we are off for lunch at Roots Pizza a la Lena.

We had walked by it earlier and made a note to return, so this worked out.  As you walk in, you smell pizza, which is admittedly kinda weird and not what you expect to smell in a small Mexican beach town.  But you are drawn in by the warm bread smell, fire, smoke, and garlic scents.

It is a bright courtyard with big tables and plant life growing all through out. A small stage in the corner makes me long for the days of patio musicians creating the perfect ambiance.  But, we are in direct view of the pizza oven, and there is cold beer, and a mezcal salesman at the next table.  And there is lobster pizza.

Usually I’m weary of wood-fired seafood, it is just never as good as I hope, and usually over cooked.  But not at Roots, and not on this pizza.  It was big hunks of lobster, on a chewy thin crust, with little sides of salsa to spice it up, and big basil leaves.  This is everything I want in a pizza, forever! Never Leaving.

ssn – we had big plans to do a comparison of all lobster pizzas for you but we just never got that done. Next time….

We Better Handle the Necessities

So, it is about this time that we decide, that since we have to coordinate getting Pat’s backpack to us before our flight, and he can’t fly home without his passport, the difficult decision is made that we will have to rebook our flights. Since we have to do that, we should probably extend our trip a couple more days.

ssn – Sweet Michelle from National Car Rental went above and beyond and drove Pat’s bag (on her own time) to the National office at the Cancun airport. A quick change with the airlines, availability at both hotels and we were able to extend our stay in paradise. In truth, we really could not stand the thought of leaving.

Dinner #2

Long, exhausting day doing nothing gets us to dinner.  We have been told Taco Queto is a local hangout for the best tacos on the island.  An open air taco spot, with a big ole spit cooking al Pastor. But with a full menu available, you can get a wide variety of meats, and food.  Visually, you will not be drawn in and think I’m a bit mad for the recommendation. It’s really just a walk in, open air type, drop-in spot, but I assure you it is clean and well loved by many. And yes, they were amazing.

We each have an al Pastor taco, pollo, and carne asada. Peggy and Pat go back for the newly discovered Arrechera (carne asada) style beef.  And yes, it was completely amazing. Authentica street tacos that you wish for in Mexico (with the option to add cheese). Al Pastor with its hint of pineapple, the smoky carne asada, a side of chipotle crema. It was really someplace to pop in and out of all day long for tacos, tacos, tacos. Maybe eventually try the burrito as big as your head or nachos, maybe.

Side note: they do not serve alcohol, but you can BYOB from the liquor store next door.

Win Win Win of a day for all.

Continue reading with Isla Holbox – Part 2