Playa del Carmen, a Hurricane, and a Justification to Return

Hopefully, you read our mini-blog on tips to survive a Hurricane. If so, you are well aware of the fact that this was not the highlight of our trip.

Although, with a little humor and a lot of tequila, we look back on Playa del Carmen with a little affection. And a whole lot of complete head shaking.

To pick-up where we left off (our Yucatan escapades), we had just gotten through what we refer to as The Dreaded Shakedown by the Yucatan State Policia. We managed to find a restroom after roadside Posole, and had to get to Playa del Carmen for the arrival of my husband. And obliviously driving towards the impending Tropical Storm Zeta.

We were fortunate enough that the Policia had not searched our luggage, because that is where Peggy was smart enough to stash additional Pesos. All was not lost and desperate, YET (that’s foreshadowing, BTW).  Bonus, we had enough change in the rental car console to be able to take the Toll Road to Playa.  A much better paved, quicker route straight into Playa.

Arriving in Playa del Carmen

We managed to arrive at the AirBnB early enough to make it to drinks at La Vagabunda prior to Pat’s arrival.  I had opted for an AirBnB for this portion of our stay, as we needed separate rooms once my husband arrived. I found this fantastic, moderately priced condo, with its own private rooftop pool. Along with a rooftop common area infinity pool with a view of the ocean.  We absolutely recommend Pueblito Escondito for your stay. However, there is a clear benefit to staying in a resort if you are even remotely close to hurricane season, which we will discuss later on.

Back to La Vagabunda, the little outdoor bar right next door.  Bright white and orange, we were in desperate need of a drink after our shakedown (yes, I plan to keep reminding readers that we were subjected to The Shakedown).

It really is an unassuming place, a block off the beach, but if you happen to walk by it, absolutely pop in.  The service was amazing, they completely treated us like we were family and greeted us by name from the first moment on.  We stopped in for the 2 for 1 margaritas. This is everywhere by the way, so don’t be swayed by the street signs you frequently pass. Snacks were necessary so we shared some fish tacos, and waited for Pat to arrive.

The food was good, Alex the bartender pours a good drink, but like I said, the service is what sets this place a part.  Even later days, if they saw us walking by they would shout out greetings, asking us when we were coming back, the kind of service that really makes you want to be there. 

Pulque

Sister side note (ssn) – Anthony Bourdain discusses Pulque here

Mayan Jungle ATV Tour

Monday morning, 8 am, we were waiting for our tour pick up.  We had found an ATV tour through the jungle. This sounded like the perfect adventure to do once my husband arrive (you know, manly men, mud, jungle, testosterone-y thing).

The excursion ended up being my favorite tour we have ever taken in all our adventures.  Jungle Buggy tour provided two seater ATVs, with a limit of 8 people on the tour. In this time of COVID we really felt this was a great idea for an experience while still maintaining some sense of safety.  Jungle Buggy included four hours riding through the jungle, a stop a private cenote (and a blessing ceremony), then a visit to a Mayan village.

The tour leaders were fun, funny, and informative of the Mayan culture. And Mayan village provided a chance to give back to the villagers through food donation and an authentic local lunch.

Mayan Jungle Tour – Private Cenote

We had the cenote all to ourselves for swimming. The tour leaders gave some insight into the sanctity of the cenote in Mayan culture. They did a great job instilling a feeling of respect for this cultural experience in us all.

Mayan Jungle Tour – Village

When we arrived at the village, we were greeted by children in all the doorways who came out to see us (and ride in the 4-seater that the tour leaders drive). We stopped at a little makeshift store and were offered the opportunity to purchase pre-packed bags of food for the villagers for $100 pesos each (about $5 USD).  We were happy to participate. So we collected our bags then were taken to the villagers (the all line up in front of the school) to offer the food to them.

It was very moving experience. Especially knowing how much this helped and contributed to their village.  And the kids were so incredibly cute and welcoming.

Lunch was prepared by one of the local women. They were the absolute best empanadas I have ever had! We were told ahead of time that the variety of empanada changed daily, and we were fortunate enough to score big by being there on pork day!

Return to Playa del Carmen

We board the van back to our AirBnB and that’s when our cell phones finally get signal again. That’s when we get the text notice that a state of emergency has been declared for the incoming HURRICAINE ZETA.  Yes, in just those 4 short hours, we were upgraded from Tropical Storm to Hurricane.

Hurricane Zeta – Essentials

In Mexico, “essential businesses only” means everything shuts down. They truly mean essential:  police, first responders, and resort staff.  Everything shuts down, all alcohol sales cease, and everyone hunkers down.  We got back just in time to pick up chips and chocolate at 7-11 but too late for ATM or Alcohol.  Yes, ATMs are shut down and covered, and alcohol sales cease so drunk people don’t do stupid things. Please refer to paragraph one where we only have the pesos in Peggy’s luggage now. 

Soon after we get back to the condo, we lose power. Again, read the blog post of things to know in case of a hurricane.  Resorts tend to have backup generators for the entire property; however, our condo had a generator for emergency lights only.

This is where a big resort will benefit you. They have power and maintain staff for tourists; an AirBnB is minimal staff, minimal power.  So, with no power and no reasonable form of entertainment, we did what any curious first timers would do and went to the roof to check it out.

Hurricane Zeta – Rooftop view

We met a few other residents exploring the rooftop pool, storm watching, and basically doing whatever they can to prohibit boredom from setting in.  Reveling in the experience of our first hurricane, we took pictures, danced on the roof top, and watched with concern the wind picking up pieces of our rooftop cover. We may have flashed the ocean, it could have happened.

But really, early bedtime as there was no lights, no TV, and a need to conserve cell phone batteries.  Not to gloss over our first hurricane experience, but it’s not much of a story. Wind blew, rain followed, more wind, more rain, more giggling at the excitement.  But it was only a Category 1 and not much danger or concern to share. 

Hurricane Aftermath

The following morning, with no power, and limited cash, we set out to see what the storm had brought to the town.  Nothing was open due to lack of power. We were feeling a little defeated, until a couple walked by us with takeout cups of coffee.  We discovered Ah Cacao Coffee Café was actually open.  Down on 5ta Avenida, the pedestrian, tourist area for shopping and restaurants. This gave us a little chance to explore the area with fewer people around.

The Café was indeed open. However, cash only, and no power meant no hot coffee. Iced coffee only.  However, this was the best iced mocha I have ever had.

Playa del Carmen – Redemption

We were pretty much ready to give up on Playa. Call it quits, chalk it up to bad luck, when we happened to stumble upon a very nice guy standing out in front of his store telling us he could get us beer.

The two couples sitting out at a table on the Avenida assured us that although it was not quite cold (no cooler power) they did indeed have beer.  Well, 10 am be damned, a beer was just what we needed.  He assured us Fabrica Tequila could indeed take a card. Now that I’m looking back, how did they take a card but didn’t have a working cooler?  Oh, well, details.

…and So Much Tequila

This man, this absolute savior of our Playa experience brought us samples of Tequilas, taught us about resting tequilas, sipping tequilas, shooting tequilas.  They set us up a table outside on the Avenida between the table of two couples (sisters celebrating a birthday, coincidence?) and three guys originally from Jersey (I know you can hear that accent already).  So. Much. Fun.  We had group shots, group commiseration, and a much needed connection with other people..

Skinny-dipping and Husband wanderings

Eventually, we needed food.  About this time, businesses started opening up around us, generators started getting diesel, and the Avenida started coming back to life.  We ended up getting way more tequila to go than necessary, and most likely paid way too much, but such is life and the experience and elevation of our mood was worth it.

Our fantastic new tequila friend, Oscar, (not to be confused with Peggy’s new Mexican friend Oscar) recommended a restaurant around the corner and yada yada yada (skipping the lost drunk husband in search of an ATM) we landed at El Pirata. 

A little side adventure

ssn – Patti might skip over the drunk husband, but I won’t. Upon leaving the tequila store, we still had no cash (and the restaurant was cash only). So Pat (being chivalrous and totally drunk) offered to walk to the ATM. We heard power had been restored on 10 Avenida so he took our cards and off he went with no sense of direction and about 5% cell phone battery.

Patti and I got to giggling about skinny dipping since we had our own private rooftop pool (could we even call ourselves #sisbehaving if we didn’t do this?). So up to the roof we go and soon we realize that we haven’t seen Pat in a while. Patti calls him and he’s lost…like, nothing is even familiar…so she tracks his phone on her map and tries unsuccessfully to guide him, but the delay in location tracking and the tequila-effect make this impossible. Cell phone battery 2%…1%…dead.

We decide to grab a cab and search him out at his last known location. Enter next new friend, Ramon, the taxi driver. Ramon drove us in circles, up and down streets and was so patient! He didn’t understand much of what we said but “mi esposo es drunk” made him laugh. We ended up back at the condo and waited out front for Pat to meander down the street.

El Pirata

We headed over to El Pirata where there was a short-ish line and definitely appeared to be a local favorite. Fortunately we were able to score a patio table, although it was still raining from the tail end of the storm. We needed the fresh air.  The menu was extensive; we shared some pulpo al mojo de ajo, more ceviche (Pat had yet to have ceviche on this adventure), fried shrimp, and shrimp a la diabla; everything was fresh, and the owner and servers were hustling to get everyone served in the post-storm chaos. 

A full day of tequila and seafood, and the friendliness we found in Playa had swayed our initial opinion into a positive that maybe this town was actually worthy of a vacation destination. We headed back to our condo and still no power, no air, no phone charging, but with an amazing view of the post storm beach and a fresh hope for the following day and our final stop of our Mexico trip:  Isla Holbox. 

Stay Tuned for our final installment of our Mexico adventure, where you will find out issues that even Peggy’s new Mexican friend Oscar can’t fix, the cool thing about flamingos, and the best tacos on the planet.

Other adventures on this trip

• Tulum
• How to survive a Category 1 Hurricane
• Playa del Carmen
• Isla Holbox Day 1
• Isla Holbox Day 2