Dublin, Deadly Fun (and that’s a good thing)

“When I die Dublin will be written in my heart”, James Joyce

Dublin has always been a dream. However, in doing my research, not everyone is keen on the Dublin experience. Of course you hear this about many capital cities; Paris, London and Rome come to mind. Many travel bloggers turn up their noses and prefer to head out to other destinations around Ireland. Others love this city. I needed to find out for myself.

Arriving in Dublin

I arrived in Dublin via train after an exhilarating but exhausting day exploring Belfast. I had planned to grab a taxi to the hotel, Aloft Dublin City in the Liberties. But when I arrived, the weather was gorgeous (as it had been the past 3 days) and it was only about 1.5 miles, so I thought I’d walk.

Since I had never been to Dublin, this was my first introduction and I have to say, it was love at first sight. As soon as I turned along the River Liffey, I was completely enchanted. The bridges, the people, and all the sights and sounds. My walk along the river took me past museums, City Hall, Temple Bar, cathedrals and schools. And the sun was starting to get lower in the sky beyond the river – it made the best possible first impression!

Accommodations

The hotel was lovely, very modern and all the amenities you expect from this brand. I planned on an early night after grabbing a drink in the rooftop bar and putting my newly acquired Irish Whiskey knowledge to use.

Hop On Hop Off Tour

We always recommend Hop On Hop Off buses as a means of both tourism and transportation when arriving in a new city. Dublin was no exception; the buses stop near each of the main points of interest and provide some narrative and great sights along the way. Luckily there was a stop around the corner from Aloft so it was convenient as well.

I had a lot of sightseeing to do in 2 days and had bookended the first day with The Jameson Distillery tour in the morning and The Guinness Storehouse tour in the afternoon, leaving plenty of time to tour the city in between.

Jameson Whiskey – Bow St. Experience

We arrived for the first tour of the morning at this legendary facility. Jameson Distillery Bow Street is located on the original site where Jameson was established in 1780. Their world-famous whiskey was produced here until 1971. After that time, the distilling operations moved to New Midleton Distillery in County Cork.

The tour is 40 minutes and includes a comparative tasting and a drink coupon to enjoy a signature cocktail either before or after in the beautifully decorated tasting facilities and bar. I also purchased the additional “Secret Whiskey Tasting”, a private barrel tasting that follows the guided tour. Be sure to make reservations in advance, several people tried to walk in, but tours were fully booked for days out.

Our tour guide was awesome. She was so much fun, so knowledgeable and really kept the tour group engaged. The history of the Jameson Family and whiskey production in Ireland was fascinating. I have been on a couple dozen Bourbon tours in Kentucky and while the production is similar, the history just really set this apart.

The private barrel tasting was a great addition. It was a small group event, hosted by two of the brand ambassadors. We tasted whiskey straight from the barrel in their small barrel room. Although Jameson Bow Street is not the main production facility, they do distill a very small quantity of two special whiskeys only available at this location. This tasting felt very special, but then again I’m a sucker for anything that feels exclusive (here, take my money)!

More Dublin Landmarks

We got back on the bus with a little whiskey buzz and an impossibly beautiful sunny day, for some drive-by sightseeing. Maybe it’s the whiskey talking, but there is something so enjoyable about the open top buses in the sunshine. I love the narration from the drivers. Each one is different and provides the opportunity to learn something new.

We stopped for lunch in the Temple Bar area, which was just so lively and fun. People watching provided great entertainment.

Guinness Storehouse Tour

Another must-do touristy stop is the Guinness Storehouse tour. This also requires advance planning and reservations although the sheer number of people was pretty surprising for the Covid times.

The tour is self-guided and is visually riveting; seven floors of waterfalls, neon lights and larger-than-life displays. The tour culminates in the Gravity Bar with a pint of Guinness. The Gravity Bar provides panoramic views of Dublin and the surrounding mountains and bay. The view from here was pretty incredible and definitely the highlight of the tour.

Dublin Day 2

Trinity College

Day 2 was my most anticipated point of interest, Trinity College. More specifically, The Old Library and The Book of Kells. The Book of Kells is an illuminated manuscript, created ~800 AD, and containing the four Gospels of the New Testament. The flourishes and ornate illustrations are beyond incredible (such an understatement).

The Book of Kells

The visit begins with the exhibition detailing the history, the artistry and the symbolism to be found in the illustrations and writings.

When you are ready to move into the Treasury to see The Book of Kells, you will be allowed into the darkened room in small groups to view what is considered to be Ireland’s Greatest Cultural Treasure. There is no photography allowed and you are given only a few moments to look at this magnificent manuscript. Although the actual visit is brief, the significance is almost overwhelming.

The Long Room

From the Treasury, make your way into the Long Room, the famed library, one of the most photographed and most beautiful in the world. The first look took my breath away, a symmetrical alley of over 250,000 of Ireland’s most ancient texts.

The room itself is remarkable, almost 65 meters long (that’s 213 feet!) and two stories high with a barreled ceiling. The books are in alcoves and mostly reachable only by sliding ladder. There is almost an optical illusion effect, and it is not readily obvious how one would even get between the alcoves on the second level. The room also contains marble busts of famous (and not so famous) authors and philosophers as well as Ireland’s oldest Gaelic harp.

A Little More Sightseeing

The area around Trinity College and the bus route back to the hotel was filled with ivy covered buildings, statues, architectural feasts. I headed back to the hotel to get ready for dinner. Although there were plenty of highly recommended restaurants in Dublin, I was set on going to Howth for some seaside relaxation and fresh seafood.

Howth

In my research for this trip, I read a blog that recommended getting out of the city to this fishing village and specifically, Octopussy’s Seafood Tapas. The drive was about 40 minutes from Dublin City out to this little peninsular oasis. The pier is lined with casual seafood restaurants with outdoor seating, leading to a viewpoint of the harbour, the Howth Lighthouse, and Ireland’s Eye (a small island bird sanctuary).

This was by far my favorite meal of the trip. We ordered a bottle of wine and so much food! The service was super friendly. I love tapas restaurants because each dish comes out when it is ready and not all at once.

Back to the City

Sadly, it was time to go back to the city and pack up for my early morning departure. Of course, there was still time for a few last whiskey drinks at the hotel’s rooftop bar and some final views of this beautiful city!

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