Dublin has always been a dream. However, in doing my research, not everyone is keen on the Dublin experience. Of course you hear this about many capital cities; Paris, London and Rome come to mind. Many travel bloggers turn up their noses and prefer to head out to other destinations around Ireland. Others love this city. I needed to find out for myself.

Arriving in Dublin

I arrived in Dublin via train after an exhilarating but exhausting day exploring Belfast. I had planned to grab a taxi to the hotel, Aloft Dublin City in the Liberties. But when I arrived, the weather was gorgeous (as it had been the past 3 days) and it was only about 1.5 miles, so I thought I’d walk.

Since I had never been to Dublin, this was my first introduction and I have to say, it was love at first sight. As soon as I turned along the River Liffey, I was completely enchanted. The bridges, the people, and all the sights and sounds. My walk along the river took me past museums, City Hall, Temple Bar, cathedrals and schools. And the sun was starting to get lower in the sky beyond the river – it made the best possible first impression!

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Accommodations

The hotel was lovely, very modern and all the amenities you expect from this brand. I planned on an early night after grabbing a drink in the rooftop bar and putting my newly acquired Irish Whiskey knowledge to use.

Hop On Hop Off Tour

We always recommend Hop On Hop Off buses as a means of both tourism and transportation when arriving in a new city. Dublin was no exception; the buses stop near each of the main points of interest and provide some narrative and great sights along the way. Luckily there was a stop around the corner from Aloft so it was convenient as well.

I had a lot of sightseeing to do in 2 days and had bookended the first day with The Jameson Distillery tour in the morning and The Guinness Storehouse tour in the afternoon, leaving plenty of time to tour the city in between.

Jameson Whiskey – Bow St. Experience

We arrived for the first tour of the morning at this legendary facility. Jameson Distillery Bow Street is located on the original site where Jameson was established in 1780. Their world-famous whiskey was produced here until 1971. After that time, the distilling operations moved to New Midleton Distillery in County Cork.

The tour is 40 minutes and includes a comparative tasting and a drink coupon to enjoy a signature cocktail either before or after in the beautifully decorated tasting facilities and bar. I also purchased the additional “Secret Whiskey Tasting”, a private barrel tasting that follows the guided tour. Be sure to make reservations in advance, several people tried to walk in, but tours were fully booked for days out.

Our tour guide was awesome. She was so much fun, so knowledgeable and really kept the tour group engaged. The history of the Jameson Family and whiskey production in Ireland was fascinating. I have been on a couple dozen Bourbon tours in Kentucky and while the production is similar, the history just really set this apart.

The private barrel tasting was a great addition. It was a small group event, hosted by two of the brand ambassadors. We tasted whiskey straight from the barrel in their small barrel room. Although Jameson Bow Street is not the main production facility, they do distill a very small quantity of two special whiskeys only available at this location. This tasting felt very special, but then again I’m a sucker for anything that feels exclusive (here, take my money)!

More Dublin Landmarks

We got back on the bus with a little whiskey buzz and an impossibly beautiful sunny day, for some drive-by sightseeing. Maybe it’s the whiskey talking, but there is something so enjoyable about the open top buses in the sunshine. I love the narration from the drivers. Each one is different and provides the opportunity to learn something new.

We stopped for lunch in the Temple Bar area, which was just so lively and fun. People watching provided great entertainment.

Guinness Storehouse Tour

Another must-do touristy stop is the Guinness Storehouse tour. This also requires advance planning and reservations although the sheer number of people was pretty surprising for the Covid times.

The tour is self-guided and is visually riveting; seven floors of waterfalls, neon lights and larger-than-life displays. The tour culminates in the Gravity Bar with a pint of Guinness. The Gravity Bar provides panoramic views of Dublin and the surrounding mountains and bay. The view from here was pretty incredible and definitely the highlight of the tour.

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Dublin Day 2

Trinity College

Day 2 was my most anticipated point of interest, Trinity College. More specifically, The Old Library and The Book of Kells. The Book of Kells is an illuminated manuscript, created ~800 AD, and containing the four Gospels of the New Testament. The flourishes and ornate illustrations are beyond incredible (such an understatement).

The Book of Kells

The visit begins with the exhibition detailing the history, the artistry and the symbolism to be found in the illustrations and writings.

When you are ready to move into the Treasury to see The Book of Kells, you will be allowed into the darkened room in small groups to view what is considered to be Ireland’s Greatest Cultural Treasure. There is no photography allowed and you are given only a few moments to look at this magnificent manuscript. Although the actual visit is brief, the significance is almost overwhelming.

The Long Room

From the Treasury, make your way into the Long Room, the famed library, one of the most photographed and most beautiful in the world. The first look took my breath away, a symmetrical alley of over 250,000 of Ireland’s most ancient texts.

The room itself is remarkable, almost 65 meters long (that’s 213 feet!) and two stories high with a barreled ceiling. The books are in alcoves and mostly reachable only by sliding ladder. There is almost an optical illusion effect, and it is not readily obvious how one would even get between the alcoves on the second level. The room also contains marble busts of famous (and not so famous) authors and philosophers as well as Ireland’s oldest Gaelic harp.

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A Little More Sightseeing

The area around Trinity College and the bus route back to the hotel was filled with ivy covered buildings, statues, architectural feasts. I headed back to the hotel to get ready for dinner. Although there were plenty of highly recommended restaurants in Dublin, I was set on going to Howth for some seaside relaxation and fresh seafood.

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Howth

In my research for this trip, I read a blog that recommended getting out of the city to this fishing village and specifically, Octopussy’s Seafood Tapas. The drive was about 40 minutes from Dublin City out to this little peninsular oasis. The pier is lined with casual seafood restaurants with outdoor seating, leading to a viewpoint of the harbour, the Howth Lighthouse, and Ireland’s Eye (a small island bird sanctuary).

This was by far my favorite meal of the trip. We ordered a bottle of wine and so much food! The service was super friendly. I love tapas restaurants because each dish comes out when it is ready and not all at once.

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Back to the City

Sadly, it was time to go back to the city and pack up for my early morning departure. Of course, there was still time for a few last whiskey drinks at the hotel’s rooftop bar and some final views of this beautiful city!

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The Cliffs of Moher and Galway

The Best of Northern Ireland – Giant’s Causeway and Belfast

It was an incredible, whirlwind trip that tested the limits of my planning skills.  In a nutshell, it was a loop from Dublin to the Cliffs of Moher to Galway to Belfast and back to Dublin. This first post covers the Cliffs of Moher and Galway leg.

First Stop – Sean’s Bar

I arrived in Dublin early in the morning; rested and ready to go after a wonderful flight from the US in a Polaris lay-flat seat on United Airlines.  After a stop for coffee, it was road trip time!

The first stop after leaving Dublin was in Athlone for Sean’s Bar.  Sean’s is Ireland’s Oldest Pub (as listed in Guinness Book of World Records) so obviously must be visited!  I loved everything about this pub – the history, the atmosphere and the storytelling by the bartender.  Athlone was my first glimpse at the legendary Irish charm and I was already looking forward to more!  But one drink and done because there was so much more to see!

Up until this point, the roads had been all highway.  Except for driving on the left, it was very similar to driving on freeways in the US…well that was about to change!!  I’m not sure if google maps needed us to do a little sightseeing or if it was legitimately the most efficient route but once we took the exit, the roads narrowed and the winding, backroad journey to the next destination, Cliffs of Moher, began.

Self Side Note (ssn) – since Patti wasn’t there, I must do my own sidenote.  I had two romanticized, clichéd Ireland scenes that I hoped would play out.   First, a flock of sheep blocking the country road.  Second, happening upon an Irish wake or wedding celebration in a local pub.  Spoiler alert…neither happened.

Cliffs of Moher

The Cliffs of Moher are known to be the top tourist attraction in Ireland.  The Cliffs are represented on almost all travel bucket lists, like “50 of the Best Views in the World”.  It was definitely top of my list, and you all know I love checking off the lists!

It was a few Euro for admission, paid to the very charming attendant as you park.  Then a short walk to the Visitor Center which also houses a row of souvenir and snack shops.  The weather (as expected) was chilly, with an ocean breeze and overcast skies.  It was a little bit of a trek up along the trail but plenty of viewpoints along the way and the views were enough to stop you in your tracks!  The 700-ft, rugged cliff walls topped with vivid green grass were just breathtaking.

As difficult as it was to tear ourselves away from this scene, we had reservations in Galway!

Galway Town

The drive from the Cliffs of Moher to Galway was one of my favorites of the trip.  Each town was cuter than the previous.  As I was annoyingly pointing out.  With each colored building, pub sign, flower box or thatched roof, I announced, “This is the CUTEST!”

ssn – I’m sure this is an American thing.  Europe is full of small, quaint towns with architectural interest so maybe it isn’t as much of a treat.  With a few exceptions, we just don’t have this in the USA.

We arrived in Galway and checked into the hotel with not much time to spare.  We stayed at The House Hotel nearer the docks but just outside the Latin Quarter.  The hotel was perfectly located near the action but not too near!  It was modern and stylish with friendly service.

Galway Whiskey Tasting Tour

I had booked a “Private Irish Whiskey and Galway Spirits Tour” with Sheena from Galway Food Tours.

The Latin Quarter is sooooo fun and lively!  It was hard to make a direct line to our first meeting place, McCambridges, without getting distracted.  We had a private tasting room and were given a selection of local meats and cheeses to go with the Irish Whiskey tastings.  Now, I have been to a good number of the Bourbon Distillers in Kentucky (and love them!) but my Irish Whiskey experience is limited to a few shots of Jameson on St. Patrick’s Day.

Whiskey Tasting Stop 1

Our first pour was Slane.  Turns out, I really like Irish Whiskey.  We also tasted the Irish version of moonshine, Poitin from Micil.  Pronounced, “puh-cheen”, this very high-proof alcohol has only been legal in Ireland since 1997.  Not going to lie, it was rough!  There was Longueville Apple Brandy that Sheena took with us for later in the tour.

Whiskey Tasting Stop 2

Moving along, we went to Ruibin down by the Docks.  Sheena’s storytelling and local knowledge were the perfect accompaniment to these wonderful whiskeys.  We tried Tullamore 12-year, Yellow Spot 12-year and Connemara Original and had some delicious snacks.

ssn – I loved both the Tullamore and the Yellow Spot.  I was not crazy about the Connemara as it was very peaty (which I have not yet acquired the taste for).

Whiskey Tasting Stop 3

The third stop was Tigh Neachtain.  Tigh Neachtain, Galway’s oldest pub is full of history and charm! We tasted Bushmills American Oak Cask Finish – I loved this one – and ate some amazing local oysters, mussels and a pork sliders.  We also broke out our apple brandy for a beautiful ending.

Off to Explore

We left the tour feeling blissfully immersed into vibrant Galway.  Sadly, we only had one night in town and I felt like I needed to explore as much of the city as possible.  Galway is made for wandering – charming streets, colorful buildings, cheerful pubs and buskers.

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The Claddagh

At Sheena’s recommendation, we walked just across the river from the Latin Quarter to The Claddagh for a more authentic, local experience.

I had my first pint of Guinness (in Ireland) at an outdoor beer garden-style tent at a local pub and was beginning to feel the tiredness from the travel day catching up with me. Back to the hotel to rest up for another destination tomorrow!