We wanted to go to Oktoberfest in 2020, but then the world shut down.  And again in 2021.  In 2022, we had prior commitments that caused a third year of missing this bucket list experience. So, 2023 was our year and we were committed to making it happen.

Oktoberfest planning starts in the Spring

Table reservations for all the beer tents open in April or May in the spring prior to Oktoberfest.  You will want to jump on these reservations.  Yes, even if you are going during the week and during the day.

Reservations are for four-hour blocks, 12-4 or 4-8.  And you must reserve the entire table.  There are no tables for two or four.  Tables in Oktoberfest are for eight to ten people.

And while entry into the tents is free, to make a reservation you must pre-pay for two “Maß” of beer and a half-chicken per person.  So, plan to pay approximately 350 euros to make this reservation.  And then plan to bring friends!!  And enjoy knowing that once you get there those first couple of liters are covered!

Sister Side Note (ssn) – In German, the curly B as in Maß is pronounced like double s. So Mass. Mass is the unit of measure for a standard mug of beer (one liter). The beers are only served by the Mass. Don’t confuse this with a “stein” which is always stoneware/ceramic (literally means “stone”) and are not used.

About those famous Oktoberfest tents

Each tent is owned and operated by a specific brewery.  And they only serve their own beer.  Paulaner only serves Paulaner, Hofbrau only serves Hofbrau, you get the picture. 

You can choose which tent to reserve a table in by the brewery you like best.  Or you can choose it based on the atmosphere you wish to experience. It is worth considering what you view your Oktoberfest experience to look like and pick a tent accordingly. They are all gorgeous in their own style, it is all just your own style and personality that will dictate which one best suit you.  You will get a feel for what is most “you” when you go to the Oktoberfest website to book the tent.  Each tent has their own booking landing page, and it is very much uniquely their theme.

ssn – I was not prepared for how HUGE these tents are! The largest is Hofbrau and it holds over 7,000 people plus another 3,000 outside!

The list of tents

Reserve your seat for the big tents by going to the official Oktoberfest Munchen website and choose from the following big tents:

Armbrustschützen-Festzelt

Augustiner-Festhalle

Festzelt Tradition

Hacker-Festzelt

Herzkasperlzelt

Hofbräu-Festzelt

Löwenbräu-Festzelt

Marstall Festzelt

Paulaner Festzelt

Pschorr-Bräurosl

Schottenhamel-Festhalle

Schützen-Festzelt

Schützenlisl

Starting to plan late? No worries!

Some tents reserve a certain number of spaces for day-of attendees.  They have check-in tables at the entrance and if you get there early the day-of, you can score some non-res spots. And the smaller outside beer gardens do not have table reservations, so if it’s a nice day this is a great option.

Just be prepared: the tables are packed, especially on sunny days. They are all community tables, so you will be sitting with strangers, you will be packed in tight back-to-back and side-to-side with other tables.  But it is very fun.

ssn – we were able to get a table outside in a beer garden on our first day and then were able to join a table in the walk-in section at a different tent. Highly recommend the inside tables (even if you have to stand). This way you get the full experience with the band, the hourly singing of “Ein Prosit”, the people watching and the sing-a-longs.

And Remember to Eat

Oktoberfest is a marathon in beer drinking.  The first one goes down pretty fast, so does the second one.  If you are going for a third Mass, you will want to be sure to eat.  The tents have great food. The half of a roasted chicken is usually the favorite. They have been doing this for decades, so the recipe and cooking are dialed in and delicious.

ssn – I am not a beer drinker but obviously I sacrificed for this trip. After the first Mass, I switched to Radlers – half beer, half sparkling lemonade – similar to what we call a shandy. Radlers are delicious and can be found everywhere!

Always get a pretzel.  There are separate pretzel ladies that wander through the tables with baskets full of pretzels.  There’s a reason why they are so well known.  But here’s one of our biggest tips:  on the menu is something called Obatzda.  It is one of the best cheese concoctions known to man.  Camembert cheese chunked up in a cream-cheesy spreadable cheese, it looks like spreadable cheddar cheese, but according to the recipe the orange color comes from the paprika.  It is a life changing discovery, and I’m glad we were warned ahead of time and started ordering this from day one.  You’ve now been told, don’t doubt us on this one.

There are menus for each table, typical German favorites like schwienebraten, schnitzel, ribs, and other specialties of the tent (they vary by tent).  

A little heads up, Brats aren’t such a thing in Munich like they are tto us in the states.  They are mainly walking foods for casual events (yes, they have booths on the Oktoberfest grounds). 

Those gingerbread hearts

They are everywhere.

But they really aren’t intended for eating.

They are kitschy touristy decorations.

They’re cute, but you really don’t want to plan to eat one.  They aren’t good.

Outside the tent

Yes, there are other things to do besides drinking beer. (PS, there are two wine tents for your weirdo winos).

Oktoberfest is very much akin to the State Fairs in the US.  There are many rides and games.  They are privately owned and operated. And the families have been doing this for generations.  They are pretty dialed in on the décor.  They are safe. And you pay individually at each ride.  No wristbands. So, bring Euros.

There are also food vendors serving everything from candied nuts to tornado potato (spiralized potatoes on sticks, they are crazy good, I’m obsessed).  There are also candy stands, lots of them. 

Oktoberfest is very family friendly and has lots of fun food and games for the kids.  This is a traditional celebration, not just a big drinking event.

What to Wear

Traditional dress is best.  Lederhosen for the men and Dirndls for the ladies. Or the newest fashion:  ladyhosen (lederhosen for women, super cute!).

Do not, emphasize NOT, wear costumes.  Do not buy Halloween costumes thinking they will pass.  You will look silly and it’s disrespectful to make their culture look cheap and costume-y.

Luckily, there are plenty of places to buy dresses and Lederhosen in Munich.  Everything from small tailored places, to larger more commercial places, there are appropriate outfits for everyone.

And let me assure you, there are plus size choices available.  They are European sizes, but as a US 20/22, I was able for have 5 or 6 choices in my size (50), and there were four sizes bigger than the one I needed. 

Plan this as a budget item, they are not cheap and will run you about $200. However, they are well made, and worth taking the extra step to make your visit more authentic and to help you feel proper.  And it’s fun!

We found plus-size friendly dirndls at Angermaier Trachten just off Marienplatz.

ssn – Dirndls are not just an Oktoberfest thing – they are worn year-round for traditional celebrations, weddings and other events. Although you should definitely buy your dirndl/lederhosen in Munich, I did purchase my dirndl blouse on Amazon. It was great and substantially cheaper.

Our favorite Oktoberfest Tip

Your first morning in Munich, schedule a tour. It will help you get adjusted to the rhythm of Oktoberfest and Munich. You will feel much more prepared when you go back to Oktoberfest on your own.  Plus, you get a lot of the history of the festival, the beer industry and Munich.

Oktoberfest Experience Tour

We did the Drink Like a Local tour, and it was awesome.  The tour started around 9 am with a walking tour of the Marienplatz area of Munich. We will learn about the beer culture, architecture and some great information about the post-WWII rebuild.  Then you walk to breakfast, where it’s a traditional Munich breakfast of Weisswurst, pretzels, and beer (and get a lesson for a proper pour).

Weisswurst is a breakfast sausage, typically only served before noon and is a Munich specialty.  It’s a white veal sausage that is boiled, not grilled or fried.  They are very good, but taking off the outer skin of the sausage makes you think of taking off a condom and is good for a giggle.

After breakfast, you hop on the train to the Wiezen, where you continue on with your tour through the Oktoberfest grounds.  You get insider tips, historical knowledge, and get to see everything. It helps to get comfortable with the layout and the goings on, plus is fascinating to hear all the little details that go in to making Oktoberfest happen. Like locals who work at the festival get all their wages tax free, a huge incentive for them to work these weeks.

ssn – Wiezen means meadow or grasslands and this is the term that the locals use to refer to Oktoberfest. “I’m going to the Wiezen”

The best part of this tour is that it comes with table reservations.  If you were late to the reservation game, this is a great way to get them.

Tour table reservations

With your tour, you get a group table from noon – four.  It includes your first two beers and a $15 credit towards food.  Always remember to tip your server!  This isn’t just a recommendation, it ensures they will keep coming back…plus it’s the right thing to do – they work so hard! Tables are balcony level, and give you a great view of the tent, band, and people watching. 

Our reservation also came with a meat and cheese platter, which scored that beloved Obatzda and lots of radishes. 

You will meet so many interesting and fun people on your tour! So be open to talking and sharing, and be ready for lots of “Prost!-ing” with your new friends.

A few last Oktoberfest tips

Carry cash.  Everything is a cash business.

Be respectful of the workers, they are working hard.

Puke hill is out behind the Hofbrau.  Yes, it’s a thing.  No, it’s not where you want to be.

It’s a marathon, not a sprint.

If you don’t want to get kicked out, don’t stand on the tables.

ssn – to be fair, I’ve always heard about everyone standing on benches, singing and Prost-ing. But was slightly disappointed that it wasn’t a thing on our visit. I’m sure if we would have been there on a weekend night, it would have been! And not once did any band play “Country Roads”!

If you decide you ARE done and want to go out in style, get up on the table, but be prepared that you are expected to chug whatever beer you have left in your Mass while the crowd cheers you on.  Don’t embarrass yourself, CHUG THAT BEER.

Related Posts

• Christmas on the Rhine
• Salzburg

Booking our Christmas on the Rhine Viking River Cruise

Our mom and I had originally booked the “In Search of Northern Lights” ocean voyage for January 2022. When that was canceled, our credits had to be used by January 2023 and with our schedules, we needed to book something in late autumn – hence, the Christmas on the Rhine. The European Christmas Markets had long been in my plans and this really seemed like an ideal way to do it.

Seems like everyone was in the same boat (literally, haha) – these were quickly sold out and we literally got the last cabin on the Viking Kara, sailing from Amsterdam, Netherlands to Basel, Switzerland in 8 festive days.

Very sadly, Patti wasn’t with us. I would have loved to experience this with her.

The Ship

This was my first ever cruise so while I don’t have other experiences to compare to, I feel like maybe I’ve now set the bar too high. Let me start by saying, everything you hear about Viking is true. The staff is incredibly kind and attentive. The service was impeccable, the food was fantastic and the atmosphere was relaxing.

Our ship had 183 people total. Like I said, we got the very last room on the ship so unfortunately it was a standard room (half height windows) but it was comfortable and well-appointed with everything we needed – even heated bathroom floors.

The food menu changes daily although there are some standards that are always available. The dinner is themed to the destination so it was really nice to try regional specialties. Food service times are limited (unlike the big cruise lines) but since the Christmas Markets have so much yummy food, this was not an issue. The lounge serves higher-end brands and can make almost anything you think of.

Day 1 – Amsterdam, The Netherlands

I was very excited for Amsterdam. The canals, The Van Gogh museum, Anne Frank house. But the weather was not cooperative and I was definitely feeling the beginnings of a cold. It was pouring rain/sleet mix and quite miserable. Mom and I walked around for an hour or so but quickly decided that it was not happening that day.

Day 2 – Dordrecht, The Netherlands

Since most of the sailing is done overnight, we woke to new cities most mornings and the excursions started early. At each destination, the cruise offers an included guided walking tour or optional excursions for unique activities for an additional cost.

In trying to catch up from the previous day’s travel, we opted to tour on our own. We woke up to beautiful, crisp weather in Dordrecht, the oldest city in Holland. It was a quiet and charming walk to see waterways, bridges, and windmills.

Day 3 – Dusseldorf and Cologne, Germany

Dusseldorf

The stretch of river from Dordrecht to Dusseldorf is the longest of the voyage. We didn’t pull into Dusseldorf until breakfast time on Day 3. This made for a nice, leisurely (ish?) morning. It was our first Christmas Market day and it was the first day of the Christmas Market for this season.

Dusseldorf was a great town – a mix of modern and historic but today’s energy was all about the Christmas Markets. I was charmed at first sight. The small, holiday huts with handcrafted Christmas decor, traditional treats and the famous gluhwein.

Gluhwein is hot, mulled wine (and surprisingly different at each stop of the trip!) served in small, collectible mugs. When you order, you pay a small deposit on the mug then you can either keep it or return it for a refund.

Cologne

After a wonderful morning, we departed for Cologne. I had signed up for the additional excursion, Cologne’s Beer Culture and Dinner. Our small group of 12 met up with our local guide and the first stop was an authentic German meal at Brauerei Zur Malzmühle – a 160-year old Family owned brauhaus.

Cologne is the home of Kolsch beer – luckily for me, since I am not a beer drinker but I do like Kolsch. Kolsch is served in small, thin glasses (6.8 US fl oz) and essentially bottomless. Servers continually bring around trays of beer and replace your empties until you place a coaster over the top.

Between the beer and the food – which was a fixed menu full of regional specialties – our group was off to a very upbeat start.

After dinner, we walked to one of the 3 large Christmas Markets. It was incredible – THIS is what I was envisioning. Bustling, festive crowds, stalls, music, lights….the sights, sounds and smells were everything you imagine.

We got gluhwein and wandered a bit before arriving at our second brauhaus. We sat outside at this one, under the heat lamps. Soon we continued on to a third and fourth pub. These bars were full of locals and tourists, after work get togethers and people boisterously kicking off the holiday season!

A few thoughts

Cologne was incredible, but here are a few thoughts. I wish we would have had longer at this stop. The Beer tour was so much fun and it was the first chance I had to get to know other people on the cruise however, I think I would have rather spent my time at the Christmas market. Additionally, Cologne’s crown jewel is their Cologne Cathedral and we did not get to visit because 1) it was evening when we arrived and it was closed; 2) Beer.

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Day 4 – Koblenz, Middle Rhine and Rudesheim, Germany

The Middle Rhine

After a quick visit into Koblenz, the main focus of the day would be our journey through the Middle Rhine. This section of the Rhine is its most picturesque and a UNESCO World Heritage site. The landscape is beautiful and lined with vineyards, darling towns and castles. And we had a beautiful clear (although COLD) day to sit on the ship’s deck and view the 20+ castles.

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Viking provided blankets and patio heaters, served gluhwein and spiked coffees while narrating the incredible sights. It was, without a doubt, one of my favorite afternoons of the trip.

Rudesheim

We opted to do the additional excursion “Dine in Rudesheim”. After taking the Christmas train into town, we spent some time enjoying the Rudesheim Christmas Market before meeting up with our ~25 shipmates for dinner.

The local restaurant served a pre-planned menu and lots of local wine. There was a four-piece band that played such German classics as My Way, Sweet Caroline and Margaritaville before bringing up volunteers for Edelweiss and finishing with everyone doing YMCA.

It was a fun and memorable night!

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Day 5 – Mannheim and Speyer, Germany

We decided to make Day 5 a rest day. After not sleeping well, and still fighting a cold, it was much needed. We spent the day reading and relaxing. Based on reports from our fellow travelers, if we were to sit out a day, this was probably the one.

Day 6 – Strasbourg, France

Strasbourg was one of my two most anticipated stops. The Alsace region in France borders both Germany and Switzerland – it has a fascinating history and is the most idyllic town, designated as the Capital of Christmas. Its Christkindelsmärik is the oldest in France, founded in 1570.

Our local guide took us by bus from the port into town. The history of the Alsace region is fascinating – essentially a tug-o-war for its control between France and Germany from the Thirty Year War (in the 1600’s) through World War II, where it has remained under French control since 1945.

After our walking tour, we were free to explore for the rest of the day. This was opening day of the Strasbourg Christmas Market (which see 2 million visitors each season) so the crowds and excitement were building throughout the early afternoon.

Strasbourg was beautifully decorated at every turn. It was truly an extraordinary day. I could go on and on, but I think I will leave it to the pictures.

My one, teeny, negative was that we had to be back on board by 5:00 so we were not able to stay long enough to see the lights come on. And there was a street lined with Bacarat chandeliers that I was dying to see.

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Day 7 – Breisach, Germany (But really…Colmar and Riquewihr)

Our last full day on board was based in Breisach, Germany. BUT…I was booked on my most eagerly awaited excursion – a full day tour to Colmar and Riquewihr. These picturesque towns in the Alsace region are just dreamy with their preserved old towns, the architecture and cobblestone streets.

Colmar

After a short, historical walking tour, we wandered the town. The people were so friendly and the crowds were joyful. It was a a fully immersive holiday experience.

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Riquewihr

Riquewihr (pronounced Reek-weer) is best known as being the inspiration for Belle’s village in Beauty and the Beast. Needless to say, I was dying to see it.

Riquewihr did not disappoint. But it was packed and overwhelming and amazing, all at the same time. It is not a Christmas Market – the whole walled, old town is transformed. So crowded that I could not do my planned rendition of Belle, “Little town, it’s a quiet village. Every day like the one before” while dancing down the road.

This day made my entire trip. In a word, magical.

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Day 8 – Basel, Switzerland

We docked sometime overnight and woke up in Basel, Switzerland. Mom and I had planned to stay an additional night and enjoy this city. The ship arranged a car to take us to our hotel where we dropped our things and headed out. We took a city tour via boat (like we hadn’t spent enough time on a boat for the last 8 days!), ate and stopped at one of the Christmas markets, Advantsgass, before turning in for an early night.

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Final Thoughts on the Viking Christmas on the Rhine

• A Viking Cruise is absolutely worth doing
• This was a fantastic way to see the Christmas Markets and these lovely towns
• Book excursions early – some of the additional ones book up fast
• Attend the evening Cruise Talks to keep up with schedules and plans for the next day
• In the dining room, when you find the wait staff that you like, sit in that section for every meal – they don’t change sections. They really do get to know you and go above and beyond.
• If you see something you like at a Christmas Market, buy it! Very few things are found in multiple places
• The Christmas Markets tend to be more food and drink than gifts. So enjoy! German pretzels are not to be missed.

Other posts from Europe

• London
• Edinburgh
• Dublin
• Northern Ireland