We had a local tour guide to do a historic walking tour and a food tour of Cartagena. Mostly inside the Old Walled City, so we had a little feel of the land and had walked by some great looking spots.  We had also, naturally, researched before traveling, so we had a great mix of planned spots and happy little accidents.

El Pasquin de Joaco (Joaco’s Pasquin)

At the end of our walking tour inside the Walled City, we stopped into this beautiful corner bar.  This was an unplanned beginning to our evening, but the air conditioning pulled us in, and I’m glad it did.

We had pulpo (octopus) and Tartare Atun (tuna tartare) that were fantastic.  I ordered a Shakerato, which was like melted coffee ice cream, it’s a shaken espresso drink with baileys, much like an espresso martini, only creamier and smoother.  Peggy and our Guide, Gustavo, split the sangria.  Now, I’m not a sangria person, which is how I ended up with the Shakerato, but this sangria made a convert out of me.  It was amazing, and I am now a fan, not of just any old sangria, but of Colombian sangria. 

Juma

We had ended our walking tour at our hotel, and as we were heading out for the night, decided to pop into this cute little corner bar by the Plaza de San Diego near to our hotel. So cute.  A tiny little place serving local beers and some craft cocktails.  We were still early in our drinking, so Peggy opted to stay in her wheelhouse with the Noche de Amor (passionfruit and mezcal), and loved it. I stuck with my standard mojito, boring but always good.  There were baskets and vines and just a cute little tropical Colombian feel.  There was women’s futbol on the tv.  A great place to just hang out for a while.

Movich Rooftop Bar

When in Cartagena, you must do one of two things: a sunset cruise, or a rooftop bar for sunset (spoiler, we did both). The Movich was a Peggy thing.  And a perfect place to start our evening.  The Movich is a boutique hotel, close to the Plaza de los Coches.  It is pretty cute and a little trendy, but that rooftop is impressive.  And it was an amazing place for our first sunset in the walled city.

Drinks were fine, but it is definitely more about the atmosphere.  We took some great pictures, did some great people watching, had our first glimpse of Big Scorpio Energy (but we will get to her later), and reveled in the fact we were in Colombia.

Pink Dolphin

During our walking tour, I spotted The Pink Dolphin.  I took a picture of the sign so that I could remember it later.  I have become slightly obsessed with the idea of the pink dolphins in the Amazon, and how could a bar named The Pink Dolphin ever steer you wrong?

We arrived there shortly after sunset, and it was dead.  We weren’t even sure they were open, but the lady on the far side of the bar assured us they were.  And it was so cute!  I am still disappointed we were there so early that it wasn’t full of great people and energy, because you could tell it would be later.  Neon, Stone, a bartender singing along to Ed Sheeran, and a “Caribbean Spritz”.  This would be my hangout if I lived here.  I loved the feel and vibe of what could become an evening there; additionally, they had this cute back room with dining tables and a decent looking menu.

But, as a sister rule, one and done, we had somewhere to be!

Alquimico

We had to be at Alquimico as close to opening as possible.  This was number one on our Cartagena planning list.  Listed among the World’s 50 Best Bars for 2024, we definitely needed to check this place out.  They seated us without a reservation, escorted us to the 2^nd floor of this amazing multi-level experience.  It was like a cross between a club, a bar, and a lounge, each floor with a different vibe, it just felt good in there.  Our seats overlooked the first-floor bar, which was super cool to watch.

While their menu was all vegetarian, we weren’t really there for the food.  I had the Tomjiti; do I remember what that was, no, in fact I don’t I just happened to write it down, it was their version of a mojito, and I know it wasn’t tomato, because EW.  Peggy continued on her Porn Star Martini tour, the search is never-ending for the best version of this amazing cocktail.

We loved this bar and wish we could have stayed longer.  Roberto was a cute little server, and the whole place had this really fun vibe, but not too slutty, clubby. A place where there were tables of loud fun young people, a post-work party, and a romantic old couple all having a great time.

ssn – Alquimico won our award for Best Bar this year. Definitely a must-stop!

Barra 7

Hands down our best stop of the trip!  Barra 7 was a happy little accident. We realized that this had been on our radar, we just didn’t know we were that close.  A little unassuming hole in the wall, one of those skinny, long bars that take up most of the space, with some rail bar stools along the wall.  It was also reminiscent of The Zoo in KC, for its sharpie covered walls, tables, bar, tiles, bathroom, everywhere!    

The bartenders were fantastic!  The drinks were amazing!  The music was fun, sing-along kind of pop vibe, but not overwhelmingly loud, and THEY HAD A DISCO BALL!!!

I mean sharpies and disco balls, what else do you need?

I loved the Tropicolada – a mango pina colada.  Peggy loved her infused Paloma. 

We were having such a great time, so we stayed for a second round.  So much for the one and done rule, but clearly the buzz was setting in.

El Baron

And here’s where the buzz had fully set in.  We had wanted to pop into this little corner bar, they had a patio out in the plaza, and it just looked cute.  I grabbed a seat outside, Peggy went in to use the restroom. 

And I wait. 

And 5 minutes later a server comes out and tells me in broken English that I must come inside. 

This is where I found my sister, with a drink already in hand, making friends with Big Scorpio Energy (BSE).  This woman was awesome!  There was a table of women, two of whom we had coincidentally shared an elevator with at The Movich.  The other two had been on the balcony where we had first spotted this woman in this amazing hat that just simply said “Big Scorpio Energy”, and as a Scorpio I am now on the hunt for one of these.  They were super fun and in town for a birthday celebration.

Now, this little place has exactly 4 tables, and we were now taking up 3 of them, plus the couple in the corner, we had this place full.  The servers were excellent and attentive, and made Peggy this lime cocktail that was amazing in this little cordial-style glass.  I had my mojito.  We ordered some parmesan garlic fries and an amazing carpaccio that was covered in garlic oil. 

I was disappointed when it was time to leave and I felt like this was just a complete perfect kind of night.  But our BSE friends had plans, and I was dying for a little Donde Fidel.

The Clock Pub

Donde Fidel ended up being closed by the time we got there, so we decided to head back to our hotel when we stumbled upon The Clock Pub.  This had been seen on a list or two, so we night-capped it here. 

The Clock Pub was a bit of an English style pub, and they had American football on TV (clearly it was a Monday Night), and we had this great drink, I forget the name, but one of my notes said it was Malibu Rum, Amaretto, and Bailey’s.  I have since made this at home, and it was just that, and it was still tasty, it wasn’t just because I was drunk.  We cheered with some Dolphins’ fans but wanted to get to Manglar before closing time.

Juan Del Mar

Too late!  Manglar had closed at midnight, and it was just midnight.  Juan Del Mar was just across the street, back by where we started at Plaza de San Diego. 

We had noticed Juan Del Mar originally because it had great patio seating and the smell of seafood filled the air (in a good way, not in a dead fish way).  To end the night, we ordered one final round of drinks, because we really needed food, and we definitely needed some libations to keep us company while they made us a pizza.

We ordered the Carbonara pizza, because I am definitely one to try something different in the pizza topping game, and I was on a roll with my Colombian found new love of all thing’s gluten (my gluten intolerance did not exist in Colombian baking, which was amazing).  It was fantastic!  Thin cracker-like crust, amazing ingredients.  I’m bummed it was so late at night, and we didn’t make it back later for more of their pizza.

Other Cartagena Bars and Restaurants deserving of Honorable Mentions:

Donde Fidel

We had been by this place the night before on our walking tour, and I was DYING to go there.  Donde Fidel’s is a salsa bar (the music, not the taco topping) and a Cartagena institution.  It is owned by one of the most well-known salsa musicians in the world, and he sits right out in front of the bar most nights.

Donde Fidel’s sits right on the main plaza, by the entrance to the walled city.  The bar had set up lots of tables and chairs out in the plaza so that you can just sit and enjoy the salsa music coming from Donde Fidel’s.  There is table service for plenty of beers and people watching.  It was fantastic, just what you want for an evening in a foreign city vibe experience.

Inside it is small, with celebrity pictures on the walls, two small rooms with a bar in each, seating, and a back hallway that looked like it led to some stairs.  With the heat of Cartagena, you definitely wanted to be outside in the open air, but you could definitely get your dance on inside if you wanted.

We sat outside, watched the activity, were amused for way too long by a Mime imitating people and enjoying the night. 

Manglar

I’m pretty sure it’s safe to say that Manglar was one of our best experiences in Cartagena.  This was an afternoon stop in prior to our tour, so that we could grab a quick snack and a glass of something local.

Peggy had what she has described as the best porn star martini of her life.  I had an amazing drink experience referred to as a “trip around Colombia” that was three martini shots representing three separate Colombian regions flavor profiles, plus a garnish to accentuate the flavor – it was amazing.

We had the mixed ceviche and the papas crujientes and were wowed by the flavors and the absolute thought and care with which everything was prepared.

ssn – Manglar made our “Best of 2024” list in both Best Bite and Best Drink!

The Townhouse

I had hit on The Townhouse on one of the best rooftop bars in Cartagena lists.  But it was part of a hotel, so I wrote it off.  That is, until we happened to be right there on the walk back to our hotel on night number 2. 

We figured we should definitely see what the fuss was all about.

It’s a cute little rooftop bar, with a cute little pool.  Nothing big or sprawling or crowded with lots of people and a DJ.  Just a fantastic bar, on a rooftop overlooking the city.  Great drinks, great appetizers, and great service. 

There is a reason this makes so many lists, and we are giving it an honorable mention with a recommendation you try it at sunset!

ssn – if you go read our friend, The Thorough Tripper‘s post about Cartagena, you’ll find that they loved The Townhouse as well!

Our Cartagena Wrap Up

Cartagena within the walled city is a great place for tourists, safety, food, and drinks. It’s very walkable and the people are friendly. There are plenty of great places to pop into, both for both upscale and common evenings out.  There is dancing and music, and a strong sense of culture.

Be aware that taking pictures of street performers will expect tipping. Use care and safety in public, don’t be stupid or careless with your attitude or money. But there is great music, there is a great vibe in the plazas, it is beautiful but in a cultural not in a fancy way.  This is definitely a city worth visiting and exploring and one of our favorite evenings out.

More Colombia Content

• Colombia – Things To Know

Duh. Start with the fact you found this post, so you already know it’s Colombia, not Columbia. But, you will see T-shirts at all the souvenir stands to remind you. We didn’t know that people didn’t know but, maybe it’s a thing?

Also, we are apologizing for improper accenting and anglicized spelling throughout this blog.

Tips for Your First Trip to Colombia

We absolutely loved Colombia, as our first trip to South America, it stood out a bit among our travels for a few reasons. For reference, we visited Cartagena, Medellín, and Bogotá. You know we are planners – we put some work into this one – but you can never know what you don’t know! We wanted to help prepare you for things we wish we would have known.  Things we thought would be helpful to share for your trip and make it amazing.

You can also refer to a Colombian Tourism Guide for questions.

The Language Barrier

We’ve been to quite a few countries where the number of English speakers were abundant enough that we really didn’t struggle.  Colombia’s primary language is Spanish.  I speak a little Spanish, but not quite enough.  Unless you are fluent, you will need to use Google Translate a lot.  Luckily, those in the service industry communicate via the Translate app, they are very familiar and comfortable with it.

In Cartagena, they speak very fast, they also shorten words. This makes it even more difficult to understand and respond without help. Since this was our first stop, we didn’t recognize this was a regional difference.

In Medellín, it was a lot easier. They use a slower vernacular, and I could actually pick words out enough to understand what many people were saying (even if I couldn’t recall the right words to respond).

We really thought in Bogotá, because of it’s size and metropolitan feel, English would be more common. The service (hotel and restaurant) industry was more English-friendly, but we still struggled.

Keep your Google Translate handy, and you will get through.  This is certainly nothing to distract you from going or enjoying the experience.  We found drivers and tour guides that were fluent in English and were a big help. A good tip is to download/make the the Translate app available off-line.

We did also find spending time on Duolingo helped with the basics of conversation and we could muddle through simple conversations and be respectful with the please, thank you, and greetings.

Side Note on Pronunciation

Just a small difference from the Spanish that we are accustomed to in the US, the ll (double L) is pronounced like a “j” rather than a “y”. So phonetically, Medellín is /məˈdɛljən/ or MEH-de-jeen. Likewise, even Calle (street) is Cah-jay.

Also, the “n” in Cartagena is not an ñ so it is not Carta-hey-nya, like we hear in the US. It is more like Carta-henna.

We are sure there are many other differences but these are the ones that were the most obvious to us.

How to Get Around – Driving, Rideshare and Traffic

From the Airport

Hire an Uber.  Do this before leaving the airport, as there are scammers and fake taxi drivers all waiting outside.  Taxis are generally fine, but make sure that you have an agreed to fare up front and definitely get into the taxi line and do not allow the freelancers to talk you into going through them.

We found that Uber was much cheaper and was a guaranteed fare. Once you get to your hotel, the desk may be able to give you the best advice or arrange a taxi if that is preferred.

Hire a Driver

Once you get in the rideshare or cab, if you like the driver, ask if they do private tours.  Most do and you can hire them for the day to take you wherever you want to go. They will be happy to wait while you enjoy your tour or attraction and be there to take you to your next stop when you are ready.

This saves you worrying about how to get to some of the more distant sightseeing spots or spending too much on touristy group tours, and as a bonus, they can give you local insight.

Traffic

Also, like in many foreign countries, roadway lanes are just a suggestion and not an absolute.  To me this feels almost comforting after traveling in Southeast Asia.  I would say Colombian drivers somewhere between London drivers and Bali drivers.  They are busy and there are lots of drivers, they are aggressive but not rude or mean, and they will swerve in and out like nobody’s business.

There are scooters that weave in and out of traffic, but not to the extent of Southeast Asia.  You get the little beep-beep of a horn to remind you they are there or that it’s your turn to go, but it’s not the hostile road rage-y horns you see in the USA cities.

Yes, it is safe, but if you have never experienced it before, just take a deep breath and trust in your driver.  In most cases, cities like this have way less traffic accidents than the US, and you are absolutely going to be ok.

How to Get Around in Colombia – Traveling Between Cities

Colombia is huge.  Bigger than you think it is.  Do not try to get everywhere on one trip unless you have a month to work through it all.  It varies and can easily be broken into chunks between coastal, mountains, cities, and Amazon region.  There are coffee regions, and islands, there are jungle cruises and mountains to hike.  It’s a very diverse country with so much culture to experience, do not try to rush it.

Luckily, flights in country are really cheap (by USA standards).  There are flights between Bogotá, Cartagena, and Medellín just about every hour.  A quick one or two-hour flight makes a much easier trip than driving (plus there are checkpoints on the roads between cities which you really do not want to take unless you are fluent in Spanish).

What to Eat – Dining in Colombia

Colombian food is amazing, do not be shy about trying everything.  Full of flavor and spices, but they are not a country that makes things too hot to enjoy.

Colombia is a country that values it’s food and quality, and the enjoyment of the meal.  As such, it is one of those countries where you will have to request the check, they will not automatically bring it to you like they do in the USA.

The Street Food culture is strong. Street vendors are safe, look for the ones with the frying and cooking done in front of you rather than the carts where it is pre-made and sitting under a heater.  Fritas, or fried food, are everywhere and really good.  People will order and hang out in front of the cart using sauces and eating instead of just walking away and eating on the go.

Coffee is obviously a big deal! Whether you go to the coffee growing region, tour a farm, or just spend time in the many cafes, definitely enjoy as much as you can.

Likewise with fresh produce, seafood and meat. Eat local and experience the specialties of each region.

What to Wear in Colombia – Packing and Style

We researched what to pack.  We struggled because it was hot and humid in Cartagena, “Eternal Spring” in Medellin, and cool and rainy in the mountainous areas of Bogotá.  Packing was a struggle, and we went with many layered options.  Tank tops, Sundresses, cardigans, shorts, joggers, jeans, and a combination of long and short sleeve shirts.

And most of the social media and blogs we found on Colombia said that Cartagena was beach style (but not swimsuits) appropriate everywhere. Bogota was much dressier, that no one wore sandals or flip flops but they love boots!  Medellín listed fashion as being very important but jeans and a leather jacket were common.

One blogger quoted her mother, from Bogotá, saying (English translation), ‘Better dead than plain”. We giggled at this because we are not dressy, primped up girls but when in Bogota…

And we still couldn’t quite get it together. 

What We Actually Found

We found that Cartagena had an amazing vibe and feel. Definitely laid back, but still touristy.  But a lot of tight, little, cut-out dresses! However, I felt quite at home there in my shorts, tanks, and sundresses.  I also felt cute most of the time.

Medellín was difficult because it was unseasonably cool (according to our driver). So we were a little underprepared – the climate was nearly identical to Bogota while we were there in November. We stuck to jeans and short sleeves with a very light rain jacket during the day, although we didn’t use it much.

By the time we got to Bogotá I was over my entire wardrobe.  And everywhere we went there was a wide range of styles.  People dressed in trendy outfits, but we also saw jeans and t-shirts, shorts, joggers, etc.  People really did do their own style.  So, the fancier stuff we bought was pretty unnecessary after our one Michelin-level dinner.

Cash or Credit Cards

Along these same lines, many small places would rather you use cash.  We went through a lot of cash.  Do not assume everyone takes a credit card, and be prepared that if they do, they will pass the 5% service fee on to the top of your total. However, the majority of restaurants took credit cards.

Tipping is not needed, but always appreciated.  Often, they will ask if you would like to include the standard 10% gratuity, and if they don’t, you can ask them to add it onto the bill. Many places won’t automatically assume you want it.  So, if you are from a tipping culture and experienced excellent service, they do appreciate the gesture.  If you are not called to do so, you will not be judged.

ATMs were fairly easy to find but the limits were low, the most we saw was $600,000 COP which was roughly $150 USD. While that went far for food, entry fees, and incidentals, our private drivers all required cash. Each “full day” was between $450,000 – $600,000 COP before meals and admissions.

In Medellin, You Can Take a Certain Tour, but Don’t Try to Talk to Locals About It

If you’ve seen a certain show centered around the rise and fall most wanted man in the world in the 90s, you will absolutely want to take a tour in Medellin.  We loved it and found it fascinating from a true crime perspective.  However, most Colombians consider this a very black mark and terrible time that they do not want to acknowledge, talk about, or hear about.

Pablo Escobar was beloved in the poverty-stricken areas and you can go see many tributes to him. However, for the rest of the country, he was a terrible human being and his crimes crushed them as a society. They do not want to hear about some tourist excited about it so be sensitive.

Safety

As relevant side note for Colombia, they have worked hard to clean up the country’s reputation.  It is beautiful and they have a lot of pride in being Colombian.  However, stick to the tourist areas if you are alone, hire a local tour guide, and take reasonable efforts to keep yourself safe.  This is still a foreign country, they still have a large drug trade and cartel issues; even though it’s not as violent and prevalent as it used to be, it does still exist.