Leaving Mykonos

As promised in the last post, I’ll start with the ugly – the ferry terminal in Mykonos. It was horrible! We had booked a mid-morning ferry to Paros but it was running late (like they tend to do). This part was not a big deal, but we got to the ferry terminal and there were swarms of people. We surely hadn’t seen these crowds during our short stay on the island so I don’t know where they had been hiding!

As the ferry was ready to board, utter chaos ensued. It was every person for themselves! People were crowding up the ramp and into the cargo area trying to store their luggage. There was a bottleneck at the stairwells where tickets were scanned before you could get to the passenger areas on the upper decks. We were maybe 20 or 30 minutes underway before we were able to get upstairs.

We did manage to get a great standing room only spot at the back of the ship for what remained of our 45 minute trip. The weather and the view really made up for the earlier hassle. We were able to put that behind us and look forward to Paros.

Arriving in Paros

We arrived at Paros at the ferry terminal in Parikia. Paros is the second largest of the Cyclades by area (behind Naxos) and third most popular in tourism (behind Santorini and Mykonos). This fact surprised me a little – we met very few people in our travels that had been or were going to Paros. Neighboring islands of Naxos and Ios seemed to be the most popular destinations for tourists we talked to. At one point, we were questioning ourselves for not choosing Naxos instead.

With fewer guests disembarking at Paros, the process was smooth. Our transfer, arranged by the hotel, was waiting to take us to Villa Isabella in Naousa (or Naoussa, I will use both).

Naousa is a charming fishing village on the Northeastern corner of Paros, about 15-20 minutes from Parikia. I’m not going to lie, I mostly selected Naousa based on the idyllic social media pictures with very little research. We had a lot of activity planned for our other stops, this one was meant to relax and go with the flow.

There was a couple on the van with us that was staying in an Airbnb in Naoussa. As we drove into town, the driver kept winding uphill, further and further. I swear, I looked at Kelli and said, “oh, hell no”. No way I am walking up this hill from the waterfront area of town. Luckily, it was for the other people!!

Villa Isabella

The driver took us to our adorable Villa Isabella where Isabella greeted us out front with hugs and warm welcomes. She made us feel like old friends. Isabella introduced us to her mom, who offered to take our bags. She was the sweetest, but there was no chance we would have let her do that.

This accommodation was almost too good to be true. The room itself had everything we could have needed but the impressive part was the private patio area and the spectacular view.

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Isabella gave us directions to town along with a list of recommended restaurants and bars. We dropped our things and off we went.

Naoussa

Down some stairs and maybe 5 minutes away was the central part of town and the marina. The town has a mix of boat tours and working fishing vessels, outdoor dining and winding alleys filled with charming shops and restaurants. The ruins of a 15th century Venetian fortress, Kastelli of Paros, sits on a jetty at the marina and makes an interesting spot to explore.

Naousa is definitely not your authentic, traditional, Greek village. It is tourism-focused but not overrun with people. It is a little bougie, posh and absolutely captivating. And I loved every bit of it!

I would apologize in advance for all the photos, but I wouldn’t mean it. I just couldn’t narrow it down!

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Sunset at Villa Isabella

After exploring the town, grabbing dinner at one of Isabella’s recommended spots (a seafood platter, to die for!), we bought some wine from the local wine shop and headed back to the hotel. That patio was calling out to be enjoyed. The sunset views did not disappoint. This level of contentment is what all vacations should aspire to!

Paros – Day 2

Our stay came with breakfast included, we only had to let Isabella know when we were ready. After ordering breakfast, we headed out to the patio – it was nearly impossible to stay away from that view! Breakfast was brought down and set out on the patio table. This breakfast!! It seems simple, but it goes down as one of the best hotel breakfasts EVER! Coffee, Greek yogurt with honey, fruit and granola, pastries and grilled cheese sandwiches. Yes, grilled cheese sandwiches for breakfast. I’m hooked, who knew?

Exploring the Island

We headed to town with no real plans although we were hoping to rent a side-by-side ATV. The first rental shop that we found had one available. It was $100 cash, no credit card needed, just my US drivers license. There may have been a waiver, but I don’t recall; there was certainly none of the typical rental paperwork. After a very brief instruction, the owner told us to have it back the next morning. What?? The next morning? He seemed surprisingly unconcerned, probably because he hadn’t seen me drive.

The rental owner assured we could drive on any road, paved or not, unless otherwise posted. We took off with no real agenda. Road signs, in English, were everywhere so getting lost did not seem like a possibility. There is just something so carefree about driving around, wind blowing, island views and no place to be.

Lefkes

After a quick stop at the Tower of Hellenistic Period ruins (not much to see here), we headed towards the center of the island.

The first town we came to was Lefkes. Lefkes is the highest village on the island and is quite mountainous. The town was picturesque with a few cafes and tavernas plus views in all directions.

Piso Livadi

We came down from the mountains and followed the east coast of the island to the small seaside village of Piso Livadi. It was laid back and felt like a sleepy beach town. We wandered the shops and along the marina and sea wall.

A short distance from town, we took a quick detour to Punda beach just to walk in the sand and stick our feet in the water. In now our fifth day in Greece, our feet had barely touched the Aegean.

Krotiri

Unaware of time or distance, we headed back towards the west side of the island. Beyond Krotiri, to the little peninsula that sits to the north of Parikia. There are some interesting sites, including caves that have impossibly beautiful views to the sea (Cave of Archilochos), along with the Church of Agios Fokos. Sadly, we never found the cave trail but take a look at that link, you will not be disappointed!

We never found a way over the crest to see the water.

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Back to Naousa

Running low on fuel and daylight, we headed back to Naousa. We dropped the ATV off and walked to town for some amazing gyros, gelato and a last wander around our beautiful town before we left the next morning.

Obviously, we were not leaving without another patio breakfast. But soon after we had a ferry to catch. First, we were lucky enough to meet up with Steven (The Thorough Tripper) and Mrs. TT for a coffee in Parikia before we caught the ferry. How great is it that they were there at the same time? Meeting up with travel friends is so much fun!

From there we were on the Blue Star Ferry, the best of the ferry options. We ignored our assigned seats and found a great spot on the covered deck with snacks and drinks and lively people all around us. Our next stop was our last, Santorini.

Paros was hard to leave. This island infuses relaxation with a bit of adventure and stunning beauty. In fact, it is the one place that Kelli and I continually talk about going back to on the next trip to Greece.

Other Greece Adventures

• Athens
• Mykonos

How to Get From Athens to Mykonos

The most common way to get to Mykonos is the ferry, although flights are readily available. We opted for a ferry, mainly for ease, but also for the Aegean views and to see other islands along the way. This would be our first ferry experience in Greece. We had a very early (still dark) departure from Piraeus Port in Athens on WorldChampion Jet. We had no way of knowing at this point, but this would be the easiest, most efficient embarkation of the trip.

If you want to know all things ferry, go read this fantastically informative blog by our friend Steven, The Thorough Tripper: Riding the Blue Star Ferry to a Greek Island. Spoiler alert…we will find out after trying 4 different ferry lines, that Blue Star was indeed, the best.

Where to Stay in Mykonos

Mykonos is the most visited of the Cycladic Islands and it really is quite a large island (relatively speaking, of course). When looking at hotels, it is a bit overwhelming. I’m going to narrow it down to 2 locations you’ll be choosing from – Chora (or Mykonos Town) or any of the beach towns along the southern/southwest coast. Of course there are some 5*, insanely gorgeous hotels nearer Tourlos/Agios Stefanos (close to the port) and in Elia, on the South/East coast.

Since we were only spending one night, we chose Chora. We wanted a hotel in town with a fairly quick and easy walk to the sights. Additionally, we had a sunset cruise out of Ornos, one of the picturesque southern coastal villages so we were able to see that as well.

We chose Vencia Boutique Hotel and it was perfect. The service was impeccable, the room was amazing and the views were incredible.

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Exploring Mykonos Town (Chora)

Our ferry arrived in Toulos (the new port) fairly early and we had a driver (arranged by the hotel) waiting for us. Tip: most hotels will arrange transportation upon request and for a small fee. We did this every stay and it took so much stress away – ferry terminals are chaotic (at best) so having pre-arranged shuttles just made it easier.

We dropped out bags – and our jaws when we saw our room and the spectacular views! It was tempting to stick around for the hotel pool but we only had the day and the entirety of Chora to explora, haha.

The walkway from the hotel was downhill and well-marked. But whew, it was already hot!

Keep in mind that we had only seen Athens until this point. So the charming alleys with their cobblestone streets, overhanging bougainvillea and colorful shutters were captivating. In the back of my mind, I wondered if all of the beautiful Instagram photos were exaggerated or if they would be ruined by crowds? Needless to say, I was not disappointed. I fell immediately in love with this little town.

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Mykonos Windmills

We made our way to one of the most iconic spots in Mykonos, the Mykonos Windmills. These flour mills are the most notable landmark in town – visible from most every point. They are very cool architecturally (and it turns out they have a version of them on most of the Cyclades). There are windmills available to stay in and I really, really wanted to do this but none were available during our stay.

After some requests…this is the hotel I was interested in but there are some Airbnb opportunities as well. Absolute Mykonos Traditional Windmill

Little Venice

I already mentioned it was hot! And it was September…I can’t imagine how August was! We stepped into a little seaside bar to have a drink and get out of the heat. It turned out to be a wonderful break. The views of Little Venice and the Windmills were wonderful. We chatted with people around us and then there was a visit from a local celebrity! Petros the Pelican. So much fun!

Back to the Hotel

After a delicious lunch, unfortunately, we were running short on time. We didn’t have time to get to the one other “must see” on my list. The Panagia Paraportiani – the whitewashed complex of 5 churches, built between the 15th and 17th centuries.

We had reservations for a sunset cruise and we were excited for our first Mykonos sunset.

Sunset Cruise

Now, I have done many, many sunset cruises and this was a unique experience. After a bit of confusion about which port we were leaving from, we arrived at Ornos beach to meet our tour group. I would say there were 25 people or so, and the boat was not yet there. We waited a bit before an old fishing boat pulled up and they ushered us onboard. Were they shuttling us to a bigger boat? What was happening?

As people started getting on board, it was very clear that there were not seats for everyone. So…you sit on the “roof” of the below deck quarters. Really!! Not sure how the captain was going to see around the 10-ish of us on the roof in front of him but we were there to trust the process. People were silent. I’m not sure anyone thought this was what they signed up for.

Not long after we got going, the tour guide started popping corks and pouring champagne. Then people loosened up. Chatting (Kelli made a new friend who spilled his life story), singing along to the music, moods were definitely improved.

We cruised out of the bay at Ornos and around the coastline. It was spectacular. The sun was setting, the island was beautiful, the water was relaxing and everyone was so happy (could have been the champagne at this point)!

Late Dinner in Ornos

After the cruise, we had some time before our driver came back for us and we needed to eat! This part of Mykonos was very beach club and resort-y. These hotels would be amazing if you were looking for some relaxation and beach time. And I’m sure these places are super fun at night, in season. It was pretty deserted on this night. We found a sushi place, Kuzina. It was delicious and just the right bite after a beautiful evening on the water.

Goodbye to Mykonos and Vencia

We arrived back at our hotel and decided to grab some drinks and soak in the view before we left in the morning. I cannot say enough good things about the Vencia hotel, and I can wholeheartedly say I loved Mykonos. I know there was a lot we did not experience and I think another night would have been the perfect amount of time.

The next morning we would be heading back to the ferry, onward to Paros. It was a horrible experience, so I’m going to leave this here and finish that story in the next post!

More Adventures in Greece

• Athens
• Paros

You remember my travel buddy, Kelli, from our Epic Utah Road trip?  Well, we are back with a much grander trip.  This time, Greece! We started off in Athens for a short stop before setting sail (or ferry, as the case may be) to Mykonos, Paros and Santorini.

Athens

Kelli and I are both planners and this always works out so well.  You know how you hear about friends where one is always planning and the other just shows up and goes with the flow?  We both research and seek out the best of things to see & do, but at the same time, we are both happy to go along with the other’s choice.  It is such a blessing!

We would be in Athens for 2 nights and had only prebooked dinner on the first night and a food tour on the one full day – the only other obligatory sight was the Parthenon (duh!).

After taking a taxi from the airport, we arrived at our beautiful hotel, The Electra Palace.  The smallest glitch, we had not confirmed with the taxi driver that he took credit cards.  So, we arrived at the hotel and needed cash.  The driver was so sweet and told us that although there were no ATMs in the immediate area, the hotel would loan us the cash.  So I ran in, explained the situation and they gladly gave me the €35 with a promise to return it in cash when I had the opportunity.  It was the first time that’s happened and just a small glimpse of the Greek hospitality that we would experience over the next 9 days.

Our hotel was ideally located in the Plaka neighborhood – a touristy shopping district at the foot of the Parthenon.  The hotel was beautiful but the rooftop view of the Acropolis…STUNNING.

Sidenote:  The Acropolis of Athens is the entire hilltop area – Acropolis meaning “highest point, extremity”.  The Parthenon is the most famous of the architectural ruins that remains on the Acropolis.  The Parthenon was a temple dedicated to the goddess Athena.

The Plaka

That first day was spent wandering around Plaka.  Since it was late September, the crowds were fairly light.  It is the perfect neighborhood for shopping, strolling, and getting acclimated to the area.  There are no wrong turns here, explore alleys, squares and the staired-stepped streets lined with cafes.

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The walk to dinner was just under a kilometer but we took a quick detour to stop by the oldest distillery in Athens, Brettos.  Brettos is in the Plaka and is a must do – you will be immediately drawn into this lively bar.  The walls are lined with colorful bottles of liqueurs, brandy, ouzo and other house made spirits.  The drink menu is extensive and delicious.

After a pre-dinner drink, we continued our walk out of Plaka into the City Center.

Dinner With a View

As I mentioned earlier, we had dinner reservations for that evening.  NYX Rooftop came highly recommended for both views and food.  NYX is a Japanese Fusion restaurant – it felt criminal not to have Greek food on that first night, but we soon got over it.

The restaurant is located in the Academias Hotel, an Autograph Collection by Marriott.  The hotel was really stylish and the lobby bar was inviting but we were headed up to the top.

Now, I know, I am a bit dramatic when it comes to views, but I literally got teary as we exited the elevator and were walked to our patio table.  I know the staff thought we were crazy, but we were in awe.  The view truly takes your breath away. 

Just look…

Sure, we had seen the Acropolis and the Parthenon throughout the day, but that doesn’t prepare you for this perspective.  Then add to that, getting to see the sun set beyond the gulf was an incredible experience.  Not to be slighted, the food was delicious, and the service was wonderful.

Back to our own Rooftop bar

We walked back to our hotel, happy but exhausted (let’s not forget we had just arrived that morning!).

But first, we had to check out our hotel’s rooftop lounge.  Although the night was chilly, we sat outside to enjoy a nightcap and the spectacular Parthenon.

Athens Day 2

Athens Day 2 was an early one.  We wanted to walk up to the Acropolis before the crowds.  It happened to be a holiday in Greece where admission was free so we knew it would be crowded.

The Acropolis – Hike Up

The climb up the hill was not easy but was not as difficult as I feared and only one wrong turn.  Always prepare for the worst!  It was early so the day wasn’t as hot as it would get – I can’t imagine doing this in August, yikes! 

There are some great sights along the walk including the Theater of Dionysus.

The Acropolis – At the Top

We got to the top and there was already a line although it wasn’t long – the gates didn’t open until 9:00 so there was a bit of a wait. 

At the top there is a small souvenir shop and a coffee stand (although you can’t take the coffee in with you).  There are also local guides walking around and offering their services.

The Parthenon and surrounding ruins are pretty amazing.  The age of these structures, and the size and detail of the carvings are unbelievable.  It might be weird, but I just wanted to touch the marble (and it is definitely prohibited!).  Aside from the Parthenon, my favorites were the Temple of Athena Nike and Erechtheion.

Be sure to check out the Acropolis Museum as well.  We did not have time, but everyone we spoke to raved about it.

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Athens Food Tour

We had booked the Gourmet Food Walking Tour of Athens.  I always love a food tour – it is such a great way to taste a variety of local specialties plus you get stories and history from the guides that you wouldn’t get on your own.

We met our guide and tour mates at Monastriaki Square.  Monastriaki Square is very large, there are 2 churches, cafes, shopping and an open space where people gather.

Our first stop was Bougatsadiko Psirri for pastries.  We sampled several varieties of Bougatsa – phyllo based sweet and/or savory pastry, think spanakopita & similar – all really good.  But watching the bakers make these was fascinating!

We walked through this alley on our way….Little Kook cafe decorates for each season. So cool!  I should also mention that graffiti is EVERYWHERE in Athens.  Every building, every surface. 

The second stop was Mokka for authentic Greek coffee!  I previously thought this was Turkish coffee, but the Greeks also prepare coffee this way.  The rich coffee is mixed with sugar and water then heated in a briki over hot sand until it foams up.  You order it sweet, a little sweet or not sweet.  Once the coffee is poured from the briki into your cup, you let it sit for a few minutes so the grounds settle before drinking it.  (I had an unenjoyable experience by not being told that earlier in the day)

The third stop Central Athens Varvakios Market – we walked through the fish market and the meat market before stopping to sample some produce, nuts and olives.

Fourth stop was Krinos for the sweet Loukoumades – Greek donuts served with honey & cinnamon syrup or chocolate.  These were delicious, very traditional but one was more than enough!  So sweet!

Our next stop was a lot of food!  Our guide took us to a meze restaurant.  We tasted ouzo (nope!) and ate traditional meze plates – appetizer or tapas like plates of food.

Can you believe how much food was on this tour??  And we aren’t even done!

Next up was a wine and vinegar tasting with small bites.  The wine was all delicious, the vinegar was amazing, and we are still talking about the Greek salad skewers.  Yum!

Our final, and favorite stop of the day…Gyros!!  I was waiting for this one and it did not disappoint.  Savvas served up amazing Gyros with fries.  I don’t know how we managed to eat another bite, but they were so good we had to!

Back to the Hotel

We took the long way back to the hotel to try to walk off some of that food!  It was a great day and could only be made better by a final evening on the rooftop patio, watching the sun set alongside the Acropolis.

We had a very early ferry to Mykonos the next morning, so stay tuned!

More Adventures in Greece:

• Mykonos
• Paros