Ghent: What to See, Eat, and Drink in Belgium’s Hidden Gem

A medieval feel, with a modern drinking scene

A recent work trip took me to Brussels, Belgium for the week. There would be plenty of free evenings for exploring the drinking scene of Brussels. But first we decided to spend the weekend prior to my conference in Ghent. This blog was dedicated to drinking, but we also want to give a couple of our favorite finds in Ghent because it was a great weekend and a beautiful city.

Why Should I Go to Ghent?

Well, I’m glad you asked. We debated between Ghent and Brugges. It was a struggle of a decision, but we ultimately decided that Ghent was easier and we could take the train on a day trip to Brugges if we wanted to see it. Side Bar: the train system in Belgium is super easy to navigate and pretty cheap – make sure you get the Train+ pass, our $3 pass for the month ended up saving us almost $40 by the time we left Belgium.

But I didn’t answer your question, did I? Ghent is a super cute little town, with a fairy tale/medieval feel to it. We stayed right downtown at the Novotel Ghent Centrum, and could walk our way through all the cobblestones, cathedrals, and around the canal system. Yes, I said canals. It’s like mini-medieval Venice.

But Let’s Talk Ghent Drinking

Jiggers

The one everyone says to go to is Jiggers. It WAS a speakeasy, so we were excited to try it. It is no longer considered a speakeasy, although they do have a slightly hidden basement bar. We do not rank or rate this as a speakeasy since it is not hidden and there is no challenge. But the drinks were fantastic, and the service from Gianni was awesome (and he and Eduardo provided us with new ideas for Brussels). We recommend Jiggers as a place you must find for a cocktail in Ghent.

Galgenhuis

On our canal tour we were informed of the smallest bar in Ghent – which used to be the smallest bar in Belgium until they put in a patio. In reliving our theme from Austin at The Smallest Bar in Texas, we decided The Hangman Bar had to happen. Technically called ‘T Galgenhuis, inside is definitely tiny. We loved the small, welcoming atmosphere.

We were not down for the patio, it seemed too common (and chilly), we wanted inside. The inside was full, but then we noticed the second-floor windows from the outside. Up a set of very steep, curved stairs was a loft with seating for 8 people. Bonus was that it overlooked the main floor, so we could people watch. Then our new friends arrived, two couples had taken the train in from their own small town to simply spend the afternoon day drinking. We were friends immediately! The service was great, and everyone was so friendly.

The Alchemist

Crossing the bridge to the other side of the canal, we happened by the cutest sign reading “Forgive me father for I have ginned” and that seemed a good sign that we needed to be there. Turns out it was a bar called The Alchemist. We have a history of finding some amazing bars called The Alchemist (London, Washington DC, Glasgow – The Alchemist is a pretty common bar name). Specializing in Gin and Tonics, it’s a small little hole in the wall, with a great wood-clad, homey feel. A little loud, a serious after work with the co-workers you like kind of place. The bartenders would all know my name and gin preferences if we lived in Ghent, it is definitely a place I would want to be often.

Bar Bonnie

During our walk exploring the city we passed Bar Bonnie. Assuming it was named after our mother, we popped by for a quick espresso martini. We ended up having to have their signature Bonnie cocktail, which was a peach and vodka based spritzer and and fit perfectly into our wheelhouse. Their warm Camembert with rosemary and thyme was amazing with warm sourdough bread as our snack time approached.

Jaggers

Not to be confused with Jiggers, we next found ourselves at Jaggers. Jaggers came highly recommended for a traditional Belgian mussel and frites. They have a great outside heated patio. Inside is a warm ambiance with an upscale, but slightly rock and roll feel (as in, great artwork, subtle colors, but famous artist pictures and guitars on the walls) The service was great, and they were lovely to engage two Americans and their need to speak English. Peggy found her usual Porn Star martini hit the spot, and we then figured out how awesome shrimp croquets are in Belgium – and yes, we snuck in a few more of these around Ghent that weekend.

Pui Piu

We stopped into Piu Piu, which came highly recommended. But it was packed and we didn’t love being cramped, it was the end of our night, we were tired and had quite a few cocktails by this point. However, they do have private karaoke rooms. Then we remembered that we didn’t need privacy to sing. It was a pretty bar, with a great cocktail list. So we recommend it, even though we didn’t have the best experience. But that night there was a big loud table, and we were crowded into a corner. However, it is a cool bar and worthy of you making your own decision.

But then there was ONE Speakeasy

And Peggy was so ready for 1898. We really wanted to stay at 1898 The Post. It looks so amazing. It also looks so fancy. But, as much as we love a luxury hotel, 1898 The Post was a little out of our budget considering the length of this trip. However, The Post is home to The Cobbler.

We are giving this speakeasy credit, as it is tucked away and not obvious. It does not have any task to get in, but reservations are recommended. Hidden behind a curtain, just down the hall from The Post check-in desk, The Cobbler is dark and moody, with couches and barrel chairs, wood, and fantastic old décor.

Our server was adorable, and we happily overlooked the fact he forgot us for a good 20 minutes. But he was an almost exact replica of my youngest child, mannerism, and all, and treated us to a sample of some great Belgian liquor. When I mentioned how much he resembled my son he smiled and said he loved Americans because we are so friendly and willing to share our lives so openly- and he manged to sound genuine about it! We scored a great candlelit table by the window where the server told us we had really scored the best seats in the house. It was a bit of a waste as it was very romantic for two sisters.

Books and Booze, Oh My

Last stop of the night was just across from our hotel. Books and Booze is a bookshop with cocktails. Kind of a mini paradise, actually. It’s set up amazingly so that the booze reflects the book topics. Hard to explain, but see the pictures, shelves of books, with bottles interspersed, and yes, you can get a shopping cocktail. We defaulted to a Gin and Tonic with a local brand called Dada Chapel. The owner was fantastic and fun to converse with. It was one of my favorite stops in Ghent, and I bought a book on the History of Drunkenness.

And all the other cool things in Ghent

So many cool things: street art, canal boat rides, statues, and gothic chapels. The city is very walkable. Let’s talk about some things other than the internet famous stops, like Frites Atelier, which provides fries with plenty of toppings (we will talk about Belgian frites in our Brussels blog).

The Castle of the Count

It’s a great central part of the city. Turns out the count who built it wanted it to be impressive, which it is, but it ended up being too cold to live in or host events in. The highlight: there is a dungeon room!!

Street Art

One of our favorites was the giant Neptune over what used to be the entrance of the fish market. It was impressive. But then I found my Ghent obsession. . . because you know there had to be one. This was a little bit of a walk, but also creepy AF. It’s simply called Jonas. It is in a local neighborhood, and it is a seriously creepy statue of a little boy hanging on a wall. And I had to see it. Turns out, it was completely unsettling.

Apparently, there are a couple more statues we missed, most specifically The Little Girl with the Knitting Needles was just too far for our tired feet to walk (but too close to respectably Uber). However, we did find the diving lady, but neglected to get a picture, but she was cool in her own right (a simple statue of a naked woman about to dive off a balcony).

Celebrating Brand New Belgians

We also loved the cute little square outside the old fish market entrance called Sint-Veerleplein. It’s also across from Castle of the Count, but the cool thing is that the streetlights in the square connect to the maternity hospitals, and the lights will flash when a baby is born.

A Good Sister Giggle

As long as we are talking fun facts to see, the Marriott runs right along the canal that you should check out. There are two geese inlayed in gold high up on the wall. And they face away from each other. For those not educated on the sleezy side of history, when geese face each other, it’s a sign of romance and love. HOWEVER, when two geese face away from each other it is a sign of a brothel! Yes, we giggled. A Lot.

See all the Cathedrals

Grab a map and go on a walk-about. Saint Bavos, Saint Nicholas, St. Michaels. They are tall and gothic and amazing. Between St. Bavos and St. Nicholas there is a belfry that you can climb for an amazing view of the city. But no worries, there is also an elevator to get you to the top. Also, in this space between Bavos and Nicholas is Sint Baafsplein square and the Stadshal Pavillion, we loved that around the pavilion and down the street towards the square is a tourist route known as the Golden Circle of Ghent there are little gold circles engraved with city scenes depicting the trade route of the middles ages.

And speaking of metal spots in the street, keep your eyes out for some bronze squares. These bronze squares memorialize individuals who were victims of the Nazis. The squares were placed on the last known freely chosen residence of Jewish people before they were deported or killed. They are called Stolpersteine or stumbling stones.

And Finally. . .

Graffiti Alley – an alley down a side street about two blocks off the touristy area. The alley is top to bottom, start to finish, graffiti. It is a very cool street art exhibition (more covered than Freak Alley in Boise, Idaho, if you know it). Oh, and find it, take the walk, and find the chocolate shop smack dab in the middle. Get some chocolate made in house, and a cup of coffee that they import, roast and grind on property.

A Few Post Thoughts

We loved Ghent. It was perfect for a two or three-day addition to a trip to Belgium. Get a waffle, get the frites, get the mussels, get the croquets. Take a canal tour and walk everywhere. It is a great, beautiful, historic, marvelous place. It was borderline dreamy. We never did make it to Brugges, but we also don’t feel like we missed out by focusing our time in Ghent.