Christmas on the Rhine – Cruising into the Holiday Spirit

Is anyone else still trying to take their Covid-canceled trips? I wish I could say that this Viking Cruise was the last of mine, but sadly I have one more to go.

Booking our Christmas on the Rhine Viking River Cruise

Our mom and I had originally booked the “In Search of Northern Lights” ocean voyage for January 2022. When that was canceled, our credits had to be used by January 2023 and with our schedules, we needed to book something in late autumn – hence, the Christmas on the Rhine. The European Christmas Markets had long been in my plans and this really seemed like an ideal way to do it.

Seems like everyone was in the same boat (literally, haha) – these were quickly sold out and we literally got the last cabin on the Viking Kara, sailing from Amsterdam, Netherlands to Basel, Switzerland in 8 festive days.

Very sadly, Patti wasn’t with us. I would have loved to experience this with her.

The Ship

This was my first ever cruise so while I don’t have other experiences to compare to, I feel like maybe I’ve now set the bar too high. Let me start by saying, everything you hear about Viking is true. The staff is incredibly kind and attentive. The service was impeccable, the food was fantastic and the atmosphere was relaxing.

Our ship had 183 people total. Like I said, we got the very last room on the ship so unfortunately it was a standard room (half height windows) but it was comfortable and well-appointed with everything we needed – even heated bathroom floors.

The food menu changes daily although there are some standards that are always available. The dinner is themed to the destination so it was really nice to try regional specialties. Food service times are limited (unlike the big cruise lines) but since the Christmas Markets have so much yummy food, this was not an issue. The lounge serves higher-end brands and can make almost anything you think of.

Day 1 – Amsterdam, The Netherlands

I was very excited for Amsterdam. The canals, The Van Gogh museum, Anne Frank house. But the weather was not cooperative and I was definitely feeling the beginnings of a cold. It was pouring rain/sleet mix and quite miserable. Mom and I walked around for an hour or so but quickly decided that it was not happening that day.

Day 2 – Dordrecht, The Netherlands

Since most of the sailing is done overnight, we woke to new cities most mornings and the excursions started early. At each destination, the cruise offers an included guided walking tour or optional excursions for unique activities for an additional cost.

In trying to catch up from the previous day’s travel, we opted to tour on our own. We woke up to beautiful, crisp weather in Dordrecht, the oldest city in Holland. It was a quiet and charming walk to see waterways, bridges, and windmills.

Day 3 – Dusseldorf and Cologne, Germany

Dusseldorf

The stretch of river from Dordrecht to Dusseldorf is the longest of the voyage. We didn’t pull into Dusseldorf until breakfast time on Day 3. This made for a nice, leisurely (ish?) morning. It was our first Christmas Market day and it was the first day of the Christmas Market for this season.

Dusseldorf was a great town – a mix of modern and historic but today’s energy was all about the Christmas Markets. I was charmed at first sight. The small, holiday huts with handcrafted Christmas decor, traditional treats and the famous gluhwein.

Gluhwein is hot, mulled wine (and surprisingly different at each stop of the trip!) served in small, collectible mugs. When you order, you pay a small deposit on the mug then you can either keep it or return it for a refund.

Cologne

After a wonderful morning, we departed for Cologne. I had signed up for the additional excursion, Cologne’s Beer Culture and Dinner. Our small group of 12 met up with our local guide and the first stop was an authentic German meal at Brauerei Zur Malzmühle – a 160-year old Family owned brauhaus.

Cologne is the home of Kolsch beer – luckily for me, since I am not a beer drinker but I do like Kolsch. Kolsch is served in small, thin glasses (6.8 US fl oz) and essentially bottomless. Servers continually bring around trays of beer and replace your empties until you place a coaster over the top.

Between the beer and the food – which was a fixed menu full of regional specialties – our group was off to a very upbeat start.

After dinner, we walked to one of the 3 large Christmas Markets. It was incredible – THIS is what I was envisioning. Bustling, festive crowds, stalls, music, lights….the sights, sounds and smells were everything you imagine.

We got gluhwein and wandered a bit before arriving at our second brauhaus. We sat outside at this one, under the heat lamps. Soon we continued on to a third and fourth pub. These bars were full of locals and tourists, after work get togethers and people boisterously kicking off the holiday season!

A few thoughts

Cologne was incredible, but here are a few thoughts. I wish we would have had longer at this stop. The Beer tour was so much fun and it was the first chance I had to get to know other people on the cruise however, I think I would have rather spent my time at the Christmas market. Additionally, Cologne’s crown jewel is their Cologne Cathedral and we did not get to visit because 1) it was evening when we arrived and it was closed; 2) Beer.

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Day 4 – Koblenz, Middle Rhine and Rudesheim, Germany

The Middle Rhine

After a quick visit into Koblenz, the main focus of the day would be our journey through the Middle Rhine. This section of the Rhine is its most picturesque and a UNESCO World Heritage site. The landscape is beautiful and lined with vineyards, darling towns and castles. And we had a beautiful clear (although COLD) day to sit on the ship’s deck and view the 20+ castles.

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Viking provided blankets and patio heaters, served gluhwein and spiked coffees while narrating the incredible sights. It was, without a doubt, one of my favorite afternoons of the trip.

Rudesheim

We opted to do the additional excursion “Dine in Rudesheim”. After taking the Christmas train into town, we spent some time enjoying the Rudesheim Christmas Market before meeting up with our ~25 shipmates for dinner.

The local restaurant served a pre-planned menu and lots of local wine. There was a four-piece band that played such German classics as My Way, Sweet Caroline and Margaritaville before bringing up volunteers for Edelweiss and finishing with everyone doing YMCA.

It was a fun and memorable night!

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Day 5 – Mannheim and Speyer, Germany

We decided to make Day 5 a rest day. After not sleeping well, and still fighting a cold, it was much needed. We spent the day reading and relaxing. Based on reports from our fellow travelers, if we were to sit out a day, this was probably the one.

Day 6 – Strasbourg, France

Strasbourg was one of my two most anticipated stops. The Alsace region in France borders both Germany and Switzerland – it has a fascinating history and is the most idyllic town, designated as the Capital of Christmas. Its Christkindelsmärik is the oldest in France, founded in 1570.

Our local guide took us by bus from the port into town. The history of the Alsace region is fascinating – essentially a tug-o-war for its control between France and Germany from the Thirty Year War (in the 1600’s) through World War II, where it has remained under French control since 1945.

After our walking tour, we were free to explore for the rest of the day. This was opening day of the Strasbourg Christmas Market (which see 2 million visitors each season) so the crowds and excitement were building throughout the early afternoon.

Strasbourg was beautifully decorated at every turn. It was truly an extraordinary day. I could go on and on, but I think I will leave it to the pictures.

My one, teeny, negative was that we had to be back on board by 5:00 so we were not able to stay long enough to see the lights come on. And there was a street lined with Bacarat chandeliers that I was dying to see.

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Day 7 – Breisach, Germany (But really…Colmar and Riquewihr)

Our last full day on board was based in Breisach, Germany. BUT…I was booked on my most eagerly awaited excursion – a full day tour to Colmar and Riquewihr. These picturesque towns in the Alsace region are just dreamy with their preserved old towns, the architecture and cobblestone streets.

Colmar

After a short, historical walking tour, we wandered the town. The people were so friendly and the crowds were joyful. It was a a fully immersive holiday experience.

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Riquewihr

Riquewihr (pronounced Reek-weer) is best known as being the inspiration for Belle’s village in Beauty and the Beast. Needless to say, I was dying to see it.

Riquewihr did not disappoint. But it was packed and overwhelming and amazing, all at the same time. It is not a Christmas Market – the whole walled, old town is transformed. So crowded that I could not do my planned rendition of Belle, “Little town, it’s a quiet village. Every day like the one before” while dancing down the road.

This day made my entire trip. In a word, magical.

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Day 8 – Basel, Switzerland

We docked sometime overnight and woke up in Basel, Switzerland. Mom and I had planned to stay an additional night and enjoy this city. The ship arranged a car to take us to our hotel where we dropped our things and headed out. We took a city tour via boat (like we hadn’t spent enough time on a boat for the last 8 days!), ate and stopped at one of the Christmas markets, Advantsgass, before turning in for an early night.

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Final Thoughts on the Viking Christmas on the Rhine

• A Viking Cruise is absolutely worth doing
• This was a fantastic way to see the Christmas Markets and these lovely towns
• Book excursions early – some of the additional ones book up fast
• Attend the evening Cruise Talks to keep up with schedules and plans for the next day
• In the dining room, when you find the wait staff that you like, sit in that section for every meal – they don’t change sections. They really do get to know you and go above and beyond.
• If you see something you like at a Christmas Market, buy it! Very few things are found in multiple places
• The Christmas Markets tend to be more food and drink than gifts. So enjoy! German pretzels are not to be missed.

Other posts from Europe

• London
• Edinburgh
• Dublin